> My grandfather built fishing boats that plyed the Chesapeake Bay.
> He used cast-iron automobile engines that were cooled by sea water
> since the installation of a radiator was impractical. The engines
> lasted for many years, so destruction of your MGF by salt water is
> not inevitable.
The above is only correct for external danage or inside the water jacket.
This car was in 30+ inches of water. That means water got into the carbs
and down into some of the cylinders. Just a few days of salt water on
piston rings and cylinder walls means a rebore etc. Water also went into
the crankcase, gearbox and rearend. Salt water on any kind of bearing, ball
or roller will do in both the bearing and the shaft. Brake drums and wheel
bearings will be damaged very quickly.
>
> Cleanup should start immediately, however.
YES, YES, YES!!!!!
> The greatest damage
> will be done to the sheetmetal. I recommend removing all the
> upholstery for thorough drying. Then spray all boxed areas with
> kerosene via drilled holes, if necessary. Drain the engine sump
> and flush the engine with kerosene, too. That'll hold things for a
> little while, then you have to get serious.
T type MGs do not have boxed areas, except for the chassis itself.
The body is framed in wood. The area
between the wood and body sheet metal can not be accessed easily, but must
be cleaned. I think the removal of all interior panels, a thorough
washing with a pressure washer, and possibly a soaking with kerosene will
delay the inevitable.
I feel there is no way to save this car without complete disasembly.
It should be done very soon.
Blair Engle
1950 @ 1953 MG TDs
The Classic MG Shop
______________________________________________________________
Blair Engle engle@phy.fsu.edu
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