PLEASE! This BB will accept files up to a certain size. What is
that size? I remember making one long, long Technical Responses last
summer which never did get in.
MGB ENGINE TEMPERATURE: Let me suggest that a better operating
temperature for all our engines is about 190F. I do believe that 160F is
too cold and requires use of a richer mixture.
VOLTAGE STABILISER: The voltage stabiliser powers two instruments
at the most: Petrol gauge and Temperature gauge. Test this unit by
inserting your 12v test light into the GREEN/BLUE temperature transmitter
wire at the front of the engine. With the key ON and the test light
earthed, the light will glow for about 20 seconds then begin winking ON OFF
ON OFF like a slow turn signal. The stabiliser rarely fails but sometimes
comes loose, which causes these instruments to read high. A failure of ALL
the dash gauges is simply a dirty fuse (third down) in the fusebox.
FELT or PAPER: I ALWAYS use the felt elements, MGA/MGB/MGC/Midget
TD/TF/1100/1300 instead of the paper because I believe they are better
filters. Only once have I seen a filter so poorly installed that the oil
outlet became plugged and the engine failed. However, the upside down
filter on the 1968->1970 MGBs and MGCs was a tradgedy! The MGBs are easily
converted to spin on top loads as the later cars. Not so with the MGC.
Best to fix a starter switch under the dash so that you can spin the
starter motor to achieve oil pressure BEFORE starting the car. Or, install
a kill switch on the distributor so that the engine cannot start until released.
PAINT COLOURS: My wife, Caroline Robinson, assembled all these
colours into one chart as the factory had never done so -- Anders even used
this list as a basis for his chart in the "Original..." BUT, the numbers
ARE too old to use now. I know we sometimes call the PPG paint library in
Troy or Cleveland to get the modern "eye match."
EXHAUST LEAKS: An exhaust leak at the joint between the head and
manifold CAN sound like rapping metal. Use a piece of 1/2" heater hose
held near the ear and listen while the engine is running.
REAR END NOISES:
Loose flanges: Clinks - Clunks
Loose U joint: Clink - Clunk - Ringing
Frozen U Joint: High pitched reciprocal squeak at start up to 20mph
Dislodged oil seal flange on diff: reciprocal squeak changing from accel
to deceleration
Loose Pinion: Change in diff sound between accel - float - decel -- ther
should be NO fore and aft / up and down freeplay in the pinion
Worn Crown Wheel and Pinion: wow wow wow wow wow wow (You'll say WOW too
when you consider the replacement price)
Loose Shock: Clunk over bumps
Loose Shock Link: Cluck Cluck over bumps
Drum too close to backing plate: squeak or shhhh going around corners
Bad Hub bearing: Tch Tch Tch often heard reflected by a building or guard
rail sometimes exacerbated by turning
Worn/missing washers on pinion/differential wheels: Clunk Clunk
accelerating and decelerating
Bad Wire Wheel splines: Clonk Clonk accelerating and decelerating
Loose tools and things in boot: Clank Jingle Kathunk over bumps
ENGINE REBUILDS: At University Motors we charge in the range of
$3000 for a complete engine w/clutch; removal and replacement with tune;
and it looks very clean, very nice and is guaranteed.
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