Notes and Comments from the past week's postings follow:
PULLING an MGB ENGINE: Disconnect the gearbox from the engine, and
swing the engine out the front. Position the engine lifting chain on the
two 5/16 studs which hold the valve cover nuts. Place the chain over the
stud and place LARGE washers over the chain, and TIGHTEN the nut so the
stud will not bend. This may sound creepy or not substantial, but it is
the way I've pulled engines for twenty five years.
ZB MAGNETTE AIR CLEANER: Please! Leave the original filter in
place. There is no filter made that is better than the oil bath. If you
need one, I have one or two extras with air manifolds.
MGB BATTERY: The twin six volts may be upgraded to the Group 26
battery which will fit right into the passenger box. MOVE the earth cable
to that box!
JUMP STARTING an MG: Always jump positive to positive, negative to
negative. Jumping will not damage an MG with a generator, but can ruin the
alternator. Therefore, slowly charge the alternatored MGs, or disconnect
the alternator during jumping.
EXTINCT PUBLICATIONS: I wrote articles for Abingdon Classics
Magazine, George Butler, Editor. When George closed down publication in
1985, he turned his mailing list over to Martyn Wise of MG Enthusiast
Magazine, Dewsbury, West Yorkshire, who continues to print. I also wrote
for Sport and GT Market which ceased publication at least ten years ago.
WIRE WHEELS: The splines must be lubricated, but use silver
coloured anti-seize instead of nasty, gooey, black grease. Both will
travel through the spoke holes, but the silver does not discolour the
wheels. For that matter, it is possible to smear the inside of the hub
with RTV silicone sealant to prevent the lubricant to escape. Of course,
now the water that gets inside will not be able to escape either. The
knockoffs need only be tightened with several monster blows with the
hammer. Watch old racing movies to see what the mechanics did in the pits
-- just a couple of swings and off they went. The new Clark&Clark wire
wheel wrench gets the spinners plenty tight without damaging the wings.
MIDGET DOOR HINGES: The bottom door hinge on the Midget loves to
begin to rust solid. When this begins, the hinge flange flexes on the body
and the metal at the pillar fails. Lubricate these hinges frequently. If
they are REALLY tight, remove the door, heat the hinge and oil it until it
is floppy loose.
MGA ENGINES: That 1500 engine was used in many applications. While
the bore and stroke remains the same, the valve size and the cam profile
changes from application to application. Any 1500 engine can be rebuilt to
high performance specifications, but if there is no rev counter drive,
you'll have to fit an electric tachometer (65-67 MGB or Midget). Those
engines are often prefixed: BP for "B" series and "P"ushrod.
|