Chris,
Just went through the same thing. My hose was dated September 1972. Guess I
got my monies worth.
If your oil was due to be changed, drain it, change the filter and put new
oil in until it's up to the proper level (start with 4 1/2 quarts), replace
your hose and start the engine. DO NOT RACE the engine untill the oil
pressure comes up. Check for leaks. Now, with the engine warm (and turned
off) spray a can of Gunk degreaser over the engine and hose it off after a
few minutes. You may want to the degreasing at the local 75¢ car wash and use
high pressure. Either way you going to get a little oil in the storm drains,
but there's not much else you can do.
Stay away from that hot exhaust manifold with the hose.You could crack it if
it's cooled too suddenly. It's much more forgiving if the engine restarted
and idling, because you virtually can't cool it off when it's running. Aways
take a clean, dry rag with you in case you get the inside of the distributor
cap wet and have to dry it off.
If you didn't need to change the oil yet, just top it off to"MAX" on the
stick.
Recheck the oil level after the engine has been run and do it on level ground
so you get a good reading.
By the way, those hose connections are tough to get off of the cooler after a
few years. Use a back up wrench. Don't put all of the stress on the cooler,
its made of rather soft aluminum and you could twist off the connection. To
loosen (or retighten) the other end of the cooler hose on the engine, you
will find a 1" clawfoot adapter on the end of a long extension and a good
size ratchet indispensible (handy for the cooler end too). Otherwise, you'll
be pulling the distributor and anything else that's in your way and still be
swearing as you struggle to get the old one loose and then get the new one
tight again.
R. Johnson - Dallas
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