Your tie rod ends should be screwed on the same amount on either side to
keep the proper geometry in the suspension. The only reason that this would
not be the case is if the car had been in an accident which damaged the
suspension. On my car for instance, the brackets on the crossmember which
mount the rack had been bent over to the passenger's side. I always wondered
why it was hard to make u-turns. Anyway, after correcting these problems you
should adjust toe-in by moving both tie rods the same amount to preserve the
geometry. If your steering wheel is not straight, drive the car to
straighten the wheels then stop and remove the steering wheel, rotating it
to the correct position. Just to make sure everything is ok, you should have
an equal degree of rotation from center in either direction if everything is
correct.
Chris Reichle
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From: mgs-owner
To: mgs
Subject: Tie rod Ends / 64 B / 2nd try
Date: Tuesday,September 17,1996 9:34AM
Hi all,
Sent a message a couple of days ago...not sure if the mail is getting out to
everyone.
on my 64B I've found that one of my tie rods is 1/2" shorter than the other
one. Hmmmmm... The rack looks in good shape, though. Was the B rack also
used
on other cars of the era?
The tie rod end on both sides are being replaced over the weekend. On one
side it threads on about 7/8" and then the locking nut cinches up to it. On
the other side ,it threads about 1.5". I believe this is OK as there is no
minimum depth called for in the manual or marked on the tie rod end. I
assume
all the threads are for adjustment of toe-in? Anyway, does 7/8" sound OK? It
doesn't look like the tie rod end can go anywhere once it is cinched up and
connected to the wheel. And 7/8" is a lot of steel...
Bruce Durgin
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