In a message dated 96-08-09 09:40:25 EDT, donmathis@lucent.com writes:
<< I have an extra starter mounted on the back of my trunk. Anybody else
with an MGA ever use the starter crank? >>
Yes, many times, usually to set the valve lash and timing. One day a few
years ago, on a challenge from a club buddy, I actually managed to start my
MGA 1500 with the hand crank. Drawing on long past references of my father's
experiences with a Ford Model A (among other things), and my own experience
with a couple of farm tractors, an engine powered hay baler, and large
gasoline air compressor, I gave it a whack. But first the disclaimer: I do
not recommend for anyone else to do this, and do not try this when your
parents are watching.
Before this is even testable, the engine mounts must be in good shape and the
nose of the car relatively straight, such that the hand crank can be
successfully engaged into the crankshaft nut.
1.) First loosen the distributor clamp and retard the timing some, OK a
whole lot, like 5 to 10 degrees after TDC.
2.) Pull the choke full out and lock it in place.
3.) Set the fast idle up a turn or two extra.
4.) Be sure the shifter is in neutral, and the hand brake is firmly on.
5.) Switch the ignition on until the fuel pump stops clicking (fill the
float bowls), then switch the ignition off again.
6.) With the crank, turn the engine over four complete revolutions (two
intake strokes for each cylinder), to prime the fuel into the cylinders.
Turn clockwise, that's the only way the crank works.
7.) Switch the ignition back on again.
8.) Turn the engine just a bit until you feel the compression stroke.
Relocate the hand crank so the handle is as low as possible on the upstroke.
Stand with your right hand on the crank handle, your back as upright as
possible, and your knees bent. Also keep your thumb on the same side of the
handle as your other fingers, do not grasp the handle with your thumb. You
put a lot force on the crank, and when the engine pops the force is relieved
suddenly. Better for the handle to bump the palm of your hand than to bend
your thumb backwards. Grip the handle firmly and pull up hard, do not let
loose of the handle. When the crankshaft rotates farther than the crank
handle, the hand crank will pop forward a couple of inches and disengage from
the crankshaft nut.
9.) If the engine is in good shape it may start on the first pull. If no
start, repeat step 8, several times if necessary. If it hasn't started after
about 8 pulls (2 for each cylinder), forget it, it never will. I think I was
lucky, it started on the second pull for me. The first pull was followed by
some "Ha, ha, ha, yeah sure", and the second pull was followed by a lot of
Ooo's and Aaah's
10.) Start or no start, push the choke in as appropriate, reset the ignition
timing and the fast idle to the original settings.
Having won a slap on the back and a couple of beers, I can tell you that this
is not the easiest way to start your LBC. A push start is usually much
easier. Give it a good push downhill, or even on a level surface (or better
yet let a friend push) up to about a fast walw or better, followed by hop in,
switch on and choke, clutch down, stuff it in second gear and pop the clutch
up. It usually starts right up.
Save the hand crank for the tuneups or an emergency when the car is stuck in
the mud and has a nearly dead battery. Notice that if the battery is
completely dead the engine won't start anyway for lack of spark at the coil.
Barney Gaylord -- 1958 MGA
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