Mike
Just had a similar experience. Mine was a dull acrylic enamel due to
poor garage ventilation. The paint suppliers answer to correct this
was
either sand and recoat or clear coat with 2 pack. Clear coat can cover
a multitude of paint sins.
But then I had these major runs in the clear coat, but the paint
supplier already knowing my skill level told me how to fix them. Use a
single edge razor blade with the 3/8" of each end taped to prevent
gouges. Hold the blade perpendicular to the surfaces and use it as a
scraper taking a little bit at a time off. For the large (wide) runs,
work on the edges of them only. This technique worked well for
removing
the drips. Then go ahead sand and polish. One other tip the paint
supplier gave me is NEVER sand the finish closer than 1/4" from any
edge
on the car. You stand a chance of sanding through the finish at the
edges.
Marty Schlining
57 MGA Coupe
75 MGB
______________________________ Reply Separator _________________________________
Subject: 2 Pack Enamel -- fixing painting defects
Author: Mike Gigante <mg@mega.cgl.rmit.edu.au> at BALT.SMTP
Date: 7/18/96 6:58 PM
Thanks to all those who had helpful suggestions a while ago when I
was pleading for advice.
Here's what happened - I painted the racecar ('66 spridget) with 2
pack (Mercedes "Aqua Blue", similar to diamond white) and ended up
with some runs and some areas of powdery finish. The main reason for
my problems were that I sprayed at too high an air pressure. This gave
me very little tolerance on the right distance and timing.
If it was acrylic laquer, it wouldn't have been a problem, but with 2
pack it was a pain.
a) I had to sand back the rise of the run until it was flush with the
surrounding paint. I used a little 320 grit W&D, followed by 1200
W&D. It was a painful and slow process. Oh yeah, I had to use a hard
backing surface for the W&D. I used a piece of wood about 12" x 1/4" x
1/8" and used spray adhesive to attach the W&D.
b) I screwed this up in a few places and ended up respraying a
significant sized section each time. The ones I screwed up were
because either 1) while the outside of the paint was dry, the inside
of the run wasn't ("doh!") 2) I tried using the pneumatic orbital
sander to speed things up 3) I used the 320 grit for too long.
c) the finish of the sanded sections was more "satin" than "high
gloss" and required **LOTS** of buffing to get even close. While it is
nice that 2 pack cures to be glossy without buffing, unless you do it
perfectly it is a curse. Maybe I should have sprayed a clearcoat over
the lot...
Anyhow, its is done now and is a hard and resilient finish. If I did
it again (2 pack that is) I'd try a HVLP unit.
Mike
_______________________________________________________________________
Mike Gigante
3D interactive graphics, Virtual Reality, british sports cars, and wine
http://mega.cgl.rmit.edu.au/~mg/ mg@mega.cgl.rmit.edu.au
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