Just my 2 cents, but you should try Kroil from Kano labs. It works LOTS
better than wd40 for loosening sticky bolts.
Andy Ramm
'67 Midget -- The Smidgin
'69 MGB -- Emma
At 04:43 PM 6/25/96 -0700, you wrote:
>
>#2 Propane or butane torch to heat it up and wrench away...
>#3 Lock-tite
>#4 I use liquid soap to slide everything togather, washes away with water
>and I don't believe any residue will hurt anything
>
>Chris Reichle
> ----------
>From: mgs-owner
>To: mgs
>Subject: Front end problems
>Date: Saturday,June 22,1996 10:37AM
>
>MG'ers
>If my network ever comes back up, perhaps someone could answer a few
>questions for me. Shirley's front end is lying in pieces on my garage floor,
>and I'm having a REALLY bad day.
>#1 Can anyone tell me what the construction of a front sway bar link is? All
>the books, manuals, etc. show it as one piece, but it is not. I cannot
>seperate it from the spring pan due to the nut turning. The link doesn't
>turn, just the bolt or whatever the nut is threaded to.
>#2 How to seperate a lower fulcrum pin from an A-arm? Siezed solid. Soaked
>it in WD-40 overnight. "I can't do it, Captain! I just don't have the
>power!" I assume heat to one part or the other? When heat is applied to a
>metal object with a hole in it, does the hole get bigger or smaller?
>(Physics is not my strong point).
>#3 What is a brand name of an "anti-sieze" compound?
>#4 Best rubber lubricant for installing bushings? I've seen WD-40 mentioned,
>but isn't that petroleum based, and therefore detrimental to rubber?
>
>AS always, your help is greatly appreciated.
>
>Dennis (What have I gotten myself into?) Littrell
>'73 B Roadster "Shirley Valentine"
>
>
>
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