G.J. writes:
> [ ... ] The only "possible problem" is the
> headlamp harness, which , I think , is only 16 guage. This means the
> headlamps are being powered using 12 guage, down to 14 guage, and down
> again to 16 guage.
>
> battery (starter) --12 guage wire -->30 A fuse -->pin #30 of relay
>
> #87 pin --> 14 guage --->16 guage? left headlamp -->16 guage to ground
> |
> --->16 guage? right headlamp -->16 guage to ground
>
> (separate relays for high and low beam).
When installing my H4s, my solution was similar. The low beams and the
high beams have completely independent and completely identical (except
for the fuse rating) circuits:
battery (starter) -> 12 ga -> inline fuse holder -> 12 ga -> pin 30
pin 87 -> 12 ga -> left low beam -> 12 ga to ground
|---> right low beam -> 12 ga to ground
An identical circuit powers the high beams.
The relay coils are powered from the headlight harness itself. I
disconnected the Lucar connectors leading to the headlights, chopped off
the headlight plug, and used these wires to power the relays. The
connections at the headlight are crimped and shrinkwrapped female spade
connectors (I had to hunt for the right size; finally found them at
NAPA); red is hot and black is ground.
The relays are neatly tucked behind the flexible windshield washer fluid
reservoir; you really have to look hard to see the heavy-duty wiring
leading to and from them.
I like having the lows and highs fused separately. It gives me a bit of
redundancy in the event of a fuse failure.
The whole thing is fully reversable; all I would need is a new stock
headlight harness, since I chopped one of the old ones up.
H4s are wonderful. With 55/100 bulbs, I don't need driving lights!
--
Todd Mullins
Todd.Mullins@nrlssc.navy.mil On the lovely Mississippi (USA) Coast
'74 MGB Tourer - Euro-spec lights are the best!
"I could go at any time..."
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