David:
in re:
>My question is.. Is this two-piece bushing an aftermarket replacement? >VB
hasn't given me a good answer but they're sending me a second >one-piece
bushing so I don't care.
Probably, but I'm not sure.
in re:
>but I'm not sure what to do with the main crossmember. I can wire brush >the
outside, but I can't reach inside and I'm not sure that a professional
>sandblaster can either. Any suggestions?
Yes, a professional sandblaster can. This is what I've been doing with my
own B this winter, so it's very recent for me. If you're wanting to do that
part right, take it to a pro shop. I think you'll be pleased with the
results. As an aside, when mine was done, I coated the X-member (and, since
I'm doing both ends of the suspension, the recently-sandblasted rear end)
with marine/aero paint. Extremely tough, resists chipping, nice finish. You
might want to inquire from a professional painter if he can do this sort of
work. Expensive, but worth it IMHO.
in re:
>However, how can I tell which parts are aftermarket
>reproductions or OEM? For example, are any of the major mechanical
>components fabricated by MOWOG (Morris-Wolsely-MG) still produced on >the
original tooling?
Well, I'm thinking 'Made in Taiwan' is a pretty clear indication of an
aftermarket part. ;) Seriously, lots of the parts are 'new originals', or
close to it. Unipart is usually the brand name for those made in Old
Blighty, some of them probably from original tooling, though I wouldn't swear
to that. And of course, we can still buy brand new OEM Lucas equipment.
::cough:: The only way I've really been able to tell aftermarkets from OEM,
and there are exceptions, are fit and price. Aftermarket body panels don't
usually fit right (well, the originals take a little body hammer work too,
but...) and my experience says that a lot of the aftermarket stuff is less
expensive.
Someone else may have a better feel for this than I do.
Corey
75 MGB 'Rags'
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