Dear Ross,
On Mon, 4 Mar 1996, Ross A. Goldberg wrote:
> Hello,
>
> I was going to (until I realize it was too windy) to bleed my brakes today
> because (a) I have no idea when the last time it was done and (b) I have to
> put a LOT of pressure on the pedal to stop the car and (c) my brake lights
> don't come on unless I have the pedal pushed way down.
The brake light switch might need adjusting (see your Haynes manual or
the BIG GREEN BOOK ).
While getting my 1970 MGB-GT roadworthy, my neighbor and I (thank God I
have a genuine 1960's motorhead neighbor) got my brake lights to work by
cleaning the brake light switch with brake cleaner- the stuff that comes
in the spray cans and stinks like godawful halogenated hydrocarbons.
There is a little metal button that connects to the contacts of the
switch. If crud gets in there, it interferes with the contacts and can
make your brake light switch inoperative. The switch is about 30 bux from
VickyB or Moss, so it could be worth fooling around to clean it. At the
very least, check to see if it is adjusted properly. It should go on with
about 1/8 to 1/4 inch depression of the pedal.
> I have a couple of questions before I being (since I have never done this
> before)...
>
> 1) I check the lines and don't see any signs of a leak, yet my master
> cylinder is low on fluid -- where does the fluid go? (I am very curious
> about this <g>).
>
> 2) My Haynes manual says to 'top off' the master cyliner -- where exactly is
> the 'top off' line? Do I go 1/2" below the top, right to the rim, or let
> the fluid overflow and eat all the paint off of my fender? <>
>
> 3) Will bleeding the brakes fix the problem with my lights not going on
> unless the pedal is on the floor? This bothers me as I feel the lights
> should go on without much pressure to let people know I am 'thinking' of
> braking <g>
>
> 4) This is a '66 B (even registered that way <g>) and the Haynes manual says
> use DOT 3 but I thought I should use DOT 4??? Any thoughts on that one?
For what it is worth, I have DOT 4 in my lines, but that is probably not
at all needed. Somehow, I thought "Newer=Better". I don't really know
what the difference is between DOT3 and DOT4 (besides the interger
value). I suspect it has to do with the boiling point of the fluid.
Perhaps Ray Gibbons or someone can enlighten me on that issue.
By the way, I've noticed that some the "Octane Boosters" available are
comprised of methanol and Isobutyl alcohol. Anyone hazard a gues as to what
the proportions of these are in these octane boosts?
Seems like mixing one's own octane boost would save quite a bit of cash.
John Peloquin
> > Thanks in advance for any help,
> Ross Goldberg
> '66 MGB
> //------------------------------------
> // Ross A. Goldberg (aka Loki)
> // http://www.computek.net/public/loki
> // loki@computek.net
>
>
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