Since you apparently have a chrome bumper car as a doner car, if it has the
front cross member/suspesion unit, use that instead of cutting the coils of
the spring. I think that cutting the front coils will change the camber of
the front wheels ( maybe that's what you want). (I happen to have a '65
front cross member...)
To change the ride hight for the later cars, I believe that they welded
spacers to the front cross member and changed the arc on the rear springs.
The guys at Motorhead would know better about this.
UMMM, adding a 1 inch spacer between the axel housing and the rear springs
RAISES the rear ride hight, was he making a jackbutt MG?
Geoff Hargreaves
*******
The axle tube sits on top of the leaf spring. Adding a spacer between the
spring and Axle tube will move the axle farther away from the spring and
closer to the car which lowers the car. You will need bigger U-bolts. The
disadvantage to this mod is the increased tendency for the rear end springs
to "wind up" in an S under hard acceleration or hop.
The other option is to get a set of performance springs which are stiffer
and lower the car an inch. They can be purchased through moss, Seven or Vic
Brit. As far as the front geometry... Putting a stiffer shorter spring in
the front will make the tires tilt in towards the car at the top. This will
improve cornering a bit at the expense of tire wear. It's similar to putting
the longer A arm mod on and older B. The ride is a bit stiff but IMHO
handling improves. You may want to get the earlier, shorter bump stops and
for the front and rear to retain the full range of motion in the suspension.
Later model B's have a shim in the bump stop bracket to account for the
higher ride hight.
With any mod like this, be sure to re-align the car because you will be
changing the geometry. I highly recommend using the metal/rubber V8 bushings
in the front A arms in place of the standard rubber.
Chris Reichle
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