On Tue, 21 Nov 95, "David M Culgan" <culgandm@ggdns.gg.dupont.com> wrote:
>In message <v01530502acd77d802724@[192.188.108.15]> Bill Yarborough writes:
>> >
>> >Bill,
>> >
>> >My brother Tim just purchased another Austin Healey this past weekend and
>> >of course I went to help him pick it up and tinker with it. My or I
>> >guess I should say his question is do you know how to remove knock-off
>> >wheels when it appears the splines have rusted together? Were the wheels
>> >stuck on your +4? I asked Jim today and he had no great answers.
>
>This hits home 'cause for the first time in 20 years of LBC bliss I too,
>recently had a stuck wheel. I recalled the trick of loosening the knock-off
>and
>driving in a circle, but I tried something different. After loosening the
>knock-off I accelerated slightly into my garage (the only paved surface
>around)
>and hit the brakes hard. I repeated this several times and then took another
>whack at the stuck wheel. It came off.
>
>I could see that rust had formed on the tapered, polished, surface of the hub
>where it contacts a matching surface on the wheel. I'm thinking that here is
>where these wheels/hubs tend to rust together, not on the splines themselves.
>With all of the flats I get (I think my car has affinity for nails), and
sharing
>my "good" wheels between two cars, I'm constantly pulling wheels and
>re-greasing the splines, but from now on I'll pay more attention to these
>polished surfaces.
>
>Dave Culgan culgandm@gg.dupont.com
>'66 MGB,'70 MGB-GT, and a few others
>
>
>
>I believe the above is the accepted method. Once you have the wheel off, I
apply "never seize" or something similar. I have never had a problem after this
treatment but wonder if its the proper way to go.
Mike Leckstein (too many MGs to remove the wheels at least once a year}
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