In <m0stPrm-0009iUC@walnut.holli.com>, Robert J. Donahue wrote:
>>On Wed, 13 Sep 1995 dallasrl@houston.cray.com wrote:
>>
>>> I have desired a MG-TD or F since I was a kid. Well, My wife saw an add in
>>> the local club newsletter and surprised me with the purchase of a 1951 TD.
>>> This car has been in storage since 1971 and was running at that time. I
>>> have seen a 10 minute video of the car and it appears to be in fairly good
>>> shape--certainly restoreable and maybe even good enough to be "cleaned up"
>>> and driven. When I get my hands on this car, what to I inspect to
>>> help me quickly assess the amount of effort required to get
>>> this car on the road? Are there specials areas on the TD that
>>> show real problems(structural/mechanical)? Where is the best
>>> source of parts? What are the best books on the TD. Any other
>>> suggestions. Thanks
>>> Bob Dallas '69 B-GT >>
>Bob, I have a TD in almost the identical situation. So far the two
>biggest problems have been the gas tank and the brakes.
Ditto. If the car has been sitting for a long time and the gas tank
smells like the hinges of hell inside, DO NOT try to start the engine.
You must clean out the fuel system first. I still have not found a
suitable solvent for oxidized gasoline. I have used biodegradable
(soap-like) solvents, acetone, laquer thinner (small amounts! Highly
explosive!) etc and none cut the crud completely. If you can find a
radiator shop willing to do it, take your tank in for (ahem) a tanking
(dip in heavily basic solvent). If you use a gas tank etch such as
sold by Bill Hirsch, be sure to get all of the resulting powder out
before using it. I threw some gravel into a tank and shook it for a
long time to do this.
Brakes are usually not that bad unless they are frozen (sorry, Bob).
You should inspect the system carefully before trusting it. Remove
all of the cylinders and carefully clean them with brake solvent. If
there is any evidence of pitting, you may be in for trouble. Light
honing can help some. If you resort to heavy honing, you will get
leaks. Obviously, replace all rubber components, including the hoses.
>
>The most expensive problem was the shocks. These are lever units that aren't
>normally replaced, just topped up with hydraulic fluid. I topped mine up and
>they leaked like sieves. I bought new ones, but I hear they can be rebuilt
>by several different shops.
Mine were rebuilt by Apple Hydraulic and they did an OK job. It's
cheaper if they do all four at once.
>
>Rubber parts in general need replacement. Boy are there ever a lot of rubber
>parts on a car!
All rubber parts are available from the usual sources (see below).
>Oh yes, the first time I started the engine a seal in the water pump blew
>out.
Replace your water pump. The old one will be bad. Not cheap, but
saves a lot of trouble in the long run.
>
>The engine and radiator seem ok so far. The radiator hoses were crumbling
>and the crumbs needed to be flushed out of the engine and radiator. Make
>sure your thermostat isn't missing.
Take your radiator to the friendly local shop and have them clean it
out. Flush the block, and if you can get to the plate on the back,
take that off and scrape out the crud in the water jacket. Use a new
gasket to reseal. The original (bellows-type) thermostat is only
sporadically available and costs the earth. Moss makes a replacement
unit involving a new casting, a brass sleeve and regular thermostat.
Not cheap, but cheaper than the original, and you do need a
thermostat.
>
>My car is incredibly rust free. I wonder if I'm just lucky, or if MG used
>some grade of steel that resists rust.
Mine is also pretty clean, but it came out of Oakland, CA. The wood
is also solid. The problem is that the doors don't shut very well
(they spread out at the bottom), but this can be taken care of by
adjusting a tensioning piece inside the door. I might actually do
that some day.
The usual sources: Moss has a lot of stuff for TD's. Abingdon Spares
is a T-car specialist. The addresses can be had from the Britcars
monster vendor list at the ftp site. You can also find a lot of
useful stuff in Hemmings Motor News, available at any well-equipped
bookshop. They usually have a page or two of TD parts sources every
month.
Congratulations on your square-rigger, and keep us posted.
Incidentally, if you haven't ever driven one, they handle rather
better that you expect, but are a lot slower than you expect at the
top end. Not a freeway car, but that comes from a 5.125 rear end...
Good luck! A. B. Bonds
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