I have an 80 and I am still in the process of doing all and a little more
of the things you are suggesting. Warning! You will end up spending twice
what you expect. Every time you change one component it will affect
another. After you raise your compression and install your cam, you will
be purchasing a new distributor. You could try recurving your old one to
match the needs of your new engine like I did but then you will realize
that you indeed need to get a vacuum unit that matches and you can't
swap that on the 80 distributor. I ended up having to buy an adjustable
cam gear to degree in my performance cam... not cheap. You will also be
completely rebuilding your engine if you take this route. You can't just
put high compression pistons in the car, you will have to have the
cylinders bored to get rid of the ovaling of the cylinder wall. If your
going to do that you might as well have it hot tanked. Now you need new
cam bearings but you were going to install a new cam anyway. Might as
well do those main bearings while your doing the con rods, and who would
do all of this work and not pay a few bucks to have the engine balanced,
crank checked and polished. I often think back and wonder if I should have
just put a turbo V6 in the thing. It might have been cheaper. Definitely
faster (300 HP).
The big problem I had was, "for $30 more I could get a performance bla
bla bla..." and I did. And because I did I had to get other performance
bla bla blas to work with it. It is a vicious cycle. I did learn a lot
about engines though... If you want an actual price/parts/headaches
breakdown let me know.
I imagine if you swap an engine you would have the same situation. You'd
have to find guages to match, a stronger rear end...
Chris
On Mon, 14 Aug 1995, Jay Tilton wrote:
> > Question: What I think I need is a new engine. A Chevy 300 someting or
> >maybe a Mazda hummer. The engine must meet the following criteria. 1. Not
> >screw up the smog regs. 2. Allow me to drive at altitude without any
> >complaint. 3. Give me some power--I think the 1800 cc mill in the MGB is
> >basically the same engine installed in the 1955 MGA--no wonder the brit car
> >industry is dead. 4. Be relatively easy to install--ie with minimum frame
> >modifications. Any thoughts??
>
> Just because a design is old doesn't mean it's no good. Care to guess how
> long the engine in my 85 Ford Crown Victoria has been around in one form or
> another? I've always found it ironic that the Britcar industry was killed
> by the US, it's biggest market. Is it any wonder that Rover doesn't want us
> to have the MGF?
>
> If you're bent on easily-installed raging power, go for the Rover 3.5-litre
> conversion. Your 1980 B would require virtually no chassis mods at all,
> just a mechanical transplant (check out
> http://www.ipl.co.uk/MG/v8conv1.html). Plan to spend at least four grand on
> this. Double that if you want anything more than a hatchet job, or if you
> want an engine that's not so much a drop-in. Double again to reinforce the
> chassis enough for some big-displacement Detroit iron. Doesn't sound so
> good anymore, does it?
>
> Would you believe me if I told you you could make your existing engine
> breathe fire for $1500? Find somebody with an older B (you have to go back
> to at least '72 for a high-compression engine) and ask him for a ride. Hard
> to believe that guy's engine has anything in common with yours.
>
> Contrary to what many belive, horses don't live in carburetors or
> distributors. They live in cams and pistons. The later cam makes the
> engine downright anemic. Combine that with your 8.0:1 compression ratio
> (compared to 9.0:1 on older B's) and your engine is a mere shadow of what it
> could be.
>
> Don't be so anxious to toss in a different powerplant yet. You'll save
> yourself sh*t-loads of money and headaches if you do the following (in the
> order listed):
>
> a) swap your cam for an older-spec one. Even better, go for a performance
> cam. Compare the specs (from the Haynes manual and the Victoria British
> catalog).
>
> Inlet opens closes Exhaust opens closes
> engines before 18V883: 16 deg BTDC 56 deg ABDC 51 deg BBDC 21 deg ATDC
> 18V883 and after: 8 " " 42 " " 54 " " 18 " "
> Kent Speed Grind: 25 " " 65 " " 60 " " 30 " "
> Kent Road Grind: 37 " " 69 " " 69 " " 37 " "
>
> You'll probably also have to change some incidental things like pushrods and
> valve springs, but the whole process isn't remotely as complicated as
> installing a different engine. If you're concerned about emissions tests,
> there exist cams specifically designed to boost engine output while
> maintaining emissions requirements.
>
> b) Install a set of high-compression pistons. No sweat. You'll have to
> start using 93 octane fuel (if you don't already), and your car might have
> dieseling problems, but (IMHO) that's a fair tradeoff for some extra torque.
>
> c) As long as you're still saving money over the engine transplant, throw on
> a header and free-flow exhaust system. Go for the stainless steel; you'll
> be glad you did.
>
> d) A high-voltage ignition coil couldn't hurt things. If your old Lucas
> electronic ignition is spotty, get a Crane/Allison setup, too. It's a snap
> to install in your 45DE4 distributor.
>
> e) The Only thing left is the carb. Dual SU's sure would be nice, wouldn't
> they? If you're feeling ambitious, check out the fuel injection article in
> the latest issue of _British Car_.
>
> After options a) and b) your car will already be quick as stink. Options c)
> through e) are just icing after that. You've maintained most of your car's
> originality, and you'll have saved enough time and money over an engine
> transplant to buy another B!
> --
> Jay Tilton | vt <> Vermont. vt = Virginia Tech.
> jtilton@vt.edu | .sig subject to change without notice
>
>
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