I'm never quite sure what people mean when they talk about a 1-wire
alternator. To be truly 1-wire it would have to be self-exciting, i.e. there
would be no ignition warning light and no warning of charge failure unless you
added a voltmeter.
Other than that a North American 73 is pretty straightforward, it just has two
wires to the coil - one feeding 12v to the +ve (white)and the other from the
-ve (white/black, one of two wires) feeding ignition pulses back to the tach,
and one (green/blue) to the temp gauge sender. However you would have to
double-check the tach wiring, it changed to the above and a voltage-pulse tach
(RVC on the face plate) for the 73 model year but some North American cars
seem to have been mis-dated when they were registered and not the model year
they were built, so it could have the earlier current-pulse tach (RVI on the
face-plate), which is likely not to work with a transplanted engine. The
cut-off point is chassis number 294241.
The alternator should have two brown wires - one thick and one thinner, plus a
brown/yellow for the indicator/excitation. Originally the thick brown was the
output and the thinner brown was for the remote sensing of battery voltage.
Both go back to the same point on the solenoid, you can either use just the
thick brown or use both in parallel for greater current carrying capacity.
PaulH.
----- Original Message -----
I am transplanting to a 1973 MGB.
The alternator I have on the new engine can be setup as 2 wire or 1 wire.
_______________________________________________
Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
Mgb-v8 mailing list
Mgb-v8@autox.team.net
http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/mgb-v8
|