Bill,
I had exactly the same problem. Car ran fine but it got hotter and
hotter until fuel boiled in carb. I have through the wing exhaust
and air can escape through holes but under bonnet heat was the
problem. I have a D&D heavy duty radiator and 2,950CFM puller
fan. The exit of heat was just short of heat generated by engine so
I thought that ceramic coating the exhaust manifold would do it by
cutting back heat getting out to engine bay. So I had them done as
well as the secondaries and had extra internal coating
done. Everything was fine after that. In June when coming back from
Tennessee I was caught in traffic jam. Temp went up so I pulled over
and allowed engine to cool but no problems other than that. I am
probably going to fit an aluminium rad but one thing puzzles me. We
talk about 'heavy duty' rads with 4 rows but maybe the 4 rows are
restricting the air flow ???? Maybe more air less tubes is what we
need for high speed running. You ought to try removing all your
shrouds to see what happens. Shrouding is great but sometimes it
causes pockets of extreme heat.
Don't bother with 'water-wetter' it just makes no difference. It is
like spraying your hand with sun block before you put it on a hot
element on the stove !!
At 01:40 PM 7/17/2006, Bill Zenkus wrote:
>Need some help from the list.
>
>I finally got to use my car on a hot day (yesterday in Connecticut)
>95+ sunny degrees.
>
>Engine temp was very good at idle no load, but it would get hot
>(220F - 230F) even on a highway drive at 65 - 75 MPH.
>As soon as I stop and let the car idle for 8 to 10 minutes, it would
>"cool" back down to 180F - 190F. Runs great on cooler (75F or less) days.
>
>I am running the OEM V8 radiator with a 50/50 mix of water to
>antifreeze. I have one large electric fan (puller) with a full
>shroud directly between the radiator and the engine. 160 degree
>thermostat. The fan cycles as it should at idle to maintain temp and
>is running constantly when the engine is "HOT".
>
>At this point I am thinking it may be due to lack of air flow at
>speed due to the bottom third or so of the radiator being "blocked"
>by the rubber bumper and solid air dam mounted below it. At idle the
>fan can pull sufficent air through but at speed, the air dam is
>creating a negative pressure just in front of the lower portion of
>the radiator thus reducing flow just when the load and requirement
>has increased.
>
>I plan to fabricate a duct from the air dam to this area of the
>radiator, but at this point I would sure appreciate some advice from
>all the experts on this list. I wish to use the "B" as my daily
>driver but need to solve this first.
>
>Bill Zenkus
>74 MGB, 64 Stroked Olds 4.3 l
> Email: mgb_zenkus@yahoo.com
Regards
Barrie Robinson
705-721-9060
MGB GT V8
Aston Martin DB 2/4 MkII in the wings
PURVEYOR of O-ring kits for Smith and Jaeger gauges
Stainless steel mesh grilles for MGBs
High-tech sound deadening materials
.........and Exotic wood gear lever knobs
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