What year did the wiring come from? Rubber bumpers had a 6v coil and a
ballast resistance in the loom, chrome bumpers had no ballast and a 12v
coil. If you use a 6v coil unballasted it, and possibly what switches it,
will get very hot. A 6v coil measures about 1.5 ohms on the primary, a 12v
about 3 ohms. On a points system and some electronic triggers it's easy to
tell if you have ballasted wiring by measuring the voltage at the coil +ve
with the points or trigger 'closed'. If you see 12v then you *don't* have
any ballast in circuit and should have a 12v coil. If you see 6v you have
ballasted wiring and a 6v coil, which is correct. If you see 9v you have
ballasted wiring with a 12v coil This is incorrect and will cause weak
sparking, but not a hot coil. But any coil will overheat if the ignition is
left on and the points or trigger are closed, which seems to be the case
where the engine naturally comes to a rest.
I've only known of a hot carb a little while after switching off, normally
the act of vaporising the fuel and the air flow cools them to less than
ambient. But stuck in traffic in high-90s ambient before I got on top of
the cooling system saw the temp gauge in the red, and slightly rough
running, which I did put down to hot carbs carbs.
You can really only discount the thermostat if the top of the rad stays cool
while heating up and then suddenly goes up to working temperature as the
temp gauge gets near the N. If the engine was very hot but the rad not then
something was restricting the flow, this could be the thermostat, or a
blocked rad or hoses. With everything else clear even with a pump with no
vanes there will be convection, but because this will be less than pumped
circulation, the engine will be hotter, and so the top of the rad will be
hotter than normal.
PaulH.
----- Original Message -----
> ... What was VERY noticeable was that the engine was very
> hot. You could not touch the carb. Coil and Lumenition power pack were
> also scalding ...
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