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Re: Roller Rockers for Buick/Rover and a Buick 300 head question

To: mgb-v8@autox.team.net, "James J." <m1garand@speakeasy.net>
Subject: Re: Roller Rockers for Buick/Rover and a Buick 300 head question
From: match@ece.utah.edu
Date: Fri, 03 Jun 2005 23:39:17 -0600
In-reply-to: <42A1296A.6010403@speakeasy.net>
References: <1a5.37fc7f23.2fc469a8@aol.com>
Reply-to: match@ece.utah.edu
Sender: owner-mgb-v8@autox.team.net
What follows is my OPINION on the matter. I would be interested in hearing 
yours    
:-)

On 4 Jun 2005 at 0:09, James J. wrote:

> p.s.  Does anyone know if the Iron Buick 300 heads were cast from the 
> same molds as the aluminum ones? 

Nope. Different molds, very different manufacturing process, even different 
shrinkage as the metal cools. The aluminum parts were cast with the molten 
aluminum under pressure,  the iron parts used the same old gravity-fed 
sand-cast 
techniques that had been used for 100 years or more, and the molds reflect 
these 
manufacturing differences.

How similar they might be, I really cannot say with any authority, but they are 
definitely not the same.

I'm afraid that the only way to truly get your questions answered would be to 
cut up 
an aluminum head that has the same casting number as the heads you want to 
port. 
Either that, or just grind conservatively and pray. (that's what I do)   :-)

My experiences and those of friends who have tried to do a home porting job 
show 
that you can actually get some pretty reasonable gains just by matching the 
ports to 
the intake and exhaust manifolds, doing some very minor clean-up of the 
runners, 
and swirl-polishing the valves, but it's real easy to make a set of heads flow 
worse 
than stock (rendering them useless) if you get too aggressive, unless you have 
a flow 
bench, and lots of experience. 

If you try to stay within the bounds that I outline above, there is no danger 
of hitting 
the water jackets. In other words you want to just clean-up the casting flaws 
and 
maybe blend in the transition between the seats and the pockets under the 
valves, 
and possibly thinning, blending and shortening the guides, without actually 
changing 
the shape of the ports at all. Any more than this should be left to the experts 
who 
have already ruined a few dozen heads.

BTW, I'm certainly not an expert, but I have worked a few heads, admittedly not 
these heads, but several sets of Chevy small-block and big-block heads, my 
Jaguar, 
and even one Ford flathead block. I'm currently working on a set of Buick 215 
heads 
for my own V8 conversion.

One other bit of info that might be useful to someone working on a set of Olds 
heads: 
Unlike the Buick and Rover heads, which are a rather different animal, (the 
Buick is 
the a better design in my opinion because the spark plug is closer to the 
center of the 
combusion chamber), the Olds heads are very similar to the small-block Chevy 
heads of the same era. So it would stand to reason that they _might_ respond to 
some of the well-documented porting tricks for Chevy heads of the mid 60's, 
such as 
un-shrouding the intake valve on the combustion chamber wall from the side up 
to 
the spark plug. Just a thought. There were several articles per year back in 
the 60's 
describing how to modify Chevy heads... with pictures.

Marvin

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