I've used Waxoyl for the sills and other box sections, but it does need to
be thinned to liquid and/or sprayed on a hot day or it will stick where it
hits and not run, that is if you can even get a spray out of the gun. But
even several days or weeks after spraying, getting some decent sunshine onto
the panel, will liquidise it and cause it to drip out of the drain holes.
Needn't worry too much about getting to the tops of the box sections as they
usually rot through at the bottom, but thin/hot enough to spray and using
the purpose-made cavity adapter (a long plastic tube with a nail stuffed in
the open end) will reach anyway. I have used clean engine oil at the front
and rear sections of the sill where they are behind the front and rear wing
cover panels as the gap is so narrow that Waxoyl tends to bridge the gap and
not run down adequately, even in hot sunshine. Others have talked of
sealing up all the drain holes and pouring clean engine oil in the top to
fill the sills (don't forget there is an inner and an outer cavity) then
draining it out. This can be reused in other cavities (probably not the
engine or gearbox!) unless it has flushed out a load of water.
PaulH.
----- Original Message -----
> I want to soak the inside of my sills (cills?) with oily stuff but Rust
> Check will not sell me a few litres, Krone wants $70! So, anyone know
how
> to make penetrating oil? Perhaps mix engine oil with toluene, acetone or
> kerosene or what?
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