Indeed, and a bit of a pig. Definitely install with windscreen sealant, and
make sure you put plenty on *both* sides of the square seals that slide onto
the legs of the frame. The new seal will need plenty of lubricant to pull
it in through the channel on the bottom rail, I tried washing-up liquid
first but found it dried too quickly, Swarfega original (the smooth stuff,
handcleaner) was much better. When you have pulled it in try and push as
much more as you can in as well, as the act of pulling it may have stretched
it, which might cause it to shrink back over time and leave gaps at the
ends, there isn't a lot of overlap. Trim the ends very carefully with a
sharp blade to leave as much overlap as you can. The long seal goes *over*
the square seals, which may seem incorrect as it leaves a triangular gap at
the body, but using sealant fills this and it should not leak.
New seals are very tightly folded back on themselves whereas old seals come
out flat. There are a couple of ways of getting the sealant on and the
frame installed without the rubber curled underneath. We put mine on dry
and pushed the frame down just far enough to hold the lip of the seal
forward, then got the end of the sealant gun under one end of the seal and
ran it the full length, lifting the lip as it went and squeezing sealant in,
holding the tip of the nozzle just off the body. Another way I have heard
of is to use strips of tape the length of the seal, one end stuck under the
lip of the seal and the other stuck to the glass, to hold the lip out, then
apply the sealant to the underneath of the seal, lower the frame into
position, and remove the tape. Probably waste less sealant that way.
But if the old seal is sound then reuse it instead of fitting a new one, it
is far far easier, and even though the lip of the seal isn't pressing down
hard on the body due to the curling action of a new one, the sealant should
ensure no leaks. The curl of a new seal also makes it very difficult to
push the frame down fully into position to insert the bolts, took three of
us and clamps at the corners, whereas refitting with the old seal it just
dropped into position and I did it single-handed. Using the tape method and
not removing the strips until the bolts are in may also help.
Finally make sure the fore and aft position of the screen lines up correctly
with the 1/4-light frame when the doors are closed, if the pressure between
them is too great it could split the door skins. The windscreen side seals
should just touch the 1/4-light frame, you will find that when under way air
pressure will push the screen onto them just that little bit more to give a
good seal.
You might like to have a look at
http://www.mgb-stuff.org.uk/wn_bodyframe.htm and click on 'Doors' and
'Roadster Screen'.
PaulH.
----- Original Message -----
From: "packrat6" <packrat6@charter.net>
To: <mgb-v8@autox.team.net>
Sent: Friday, March 11, 2005 2:07 PM
> anyone had the pleasure of replacing the seal between the windshield frame
and
> the body? should this be intalled dry or should some sealant/rtv or
whatever
> be used?
///
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