I'll step out and speak for a buddy of mine (Mark Trosper) who is also a
member of this list, but is on a tour of Italy at the moment.
Mark and I share a shop where we "play with cars" on the weekends. We are in
mid-process of an aluminum V8 conversion in a '79 MGB for Mark.
Mark purchased an S-10 (limited slip) rear from D&D. The quality of the
workmanship (machining, welding, finishing) is excellent. I highly recommend
D&D for this and other components you may need.
The installation into the car is straightforward. The only thing we needed to
do was to weld the rebound strap attaching hardware (that funny bolt with the
flange about mid length) to the spring perches. Not sure why D&D didn't weld
them on prior to shipping - I'm sure there is a reason, but I don't remember
what reason the instructions gave. Maybe the rebound straps are optional if
you use telescopic shocks?
You'll also need to bend a new set of brake lines for the rear end. The S10
uses double flares on the wheel cylinders, but the tee fitting (MGB style) has
a bubble flare (IIRC). Other than that, it's a straight bolt-in. Of course,
you will need a new drive (prop) shaft - but you'll likely be doing that
anyway. D&D provided that as part of the system (bell housing, T-5 tranny,
etc.).
We did encounter one other issue that may or may not affect you. Mark
purchased true Mini-Lite wheels (not the K-N replicas). Note that on the S10
axle there is a flange on the outer face of the axle that centers the brake
drum. This flange extends from the face (the wheel mounting surface) by about
3/8 inch. The diameter of this flange is greater than the diameter of the
center hole in the Mini-Lites, and extends far enough so that the mounting
surface on the wheels would not contact the face of the brake drum (where the
lug bolts are) on the axle. Not a good thing.
I have a metal lathe in the shop, so we removed the axles, pressed out the lug
bolts, and turned the flange to allow the Mini-Lites to mount properly. We
did leave the appropriate amount of the flange (about 1/8 inch, IIRC) - the
same amount as the thickness of the brake drum face, so that the brake drum
would still maintain concentricity with the axle. We then pressed the lug
bolts back in, reinstalled the axles, and all bolted up nicely.
The alternative would be to remove a small amount of material from the back
face of the Mini-Lites, but my lathe doesn't have capacity to handle the
wheels.
All the above said, that probably wouldn't have needed to be done with
different wheels, but I do know it was needed for the Mini-Lites. Regular MGB
Rostyle wheels did work (again, IIRC - this was done about 6 months ago).
Sorry for the long post. I'll be happy to discuss this further if you need
more info.
Regards -
Wayne Kube
Plano, TX
----- Original Message -----
From: Glenn
To: mgb-v8@autox.team.net
Sent: Saturday, February 19, 2005 10:51 AM
Subject: S10 Rear from D&D
Has anyone on the list actually purchased an S10 rear from D&D? I'm curious
as to the amount of work it took to install.
Thanks!
Glenn
///
/// mgb-v8@autox.team.net mailing list
/// Send admin requests to majordomo@autox.team.net
/// Send list postings to mgb-v8@autox.team.net
/// Edit your replies! If they include this trailer, they will NOT be sent.
///
|