To: | mgb-v8@autox.team.net |
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Subject: | Re: Block Paint Question |
From: | "James J." <m1garand@speakeasy.net> |
Date: | Thu, 15 Jul 2004 20:24:36 -0400 |
In-reply-to: | <40F6993E.26846.1743391@localhost> |
References: | <40F6993E.26846.1743391@localhost> |
Reply-to: | "James J." <m1garand@speakeasy.net> |
Sender: | owner-mgb-v8@autox.team.net |
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I believe that the common T6 heat treating involves bringing the
aluminum up to ~550 Deg F, or thereabouts. I've been doing alot of
powdercoating at home, and most of my suppliers now make hi-temp powders
for head and exhausts, good to ~1800 Deg F. They are thermosets, which
means that once they hit their "melting point" (a more accurate term
would be "curing temp") the polymers begin to cross-link in a bond that
is permanent, so they won't "melt" if raised to that temperature. They
will burn at a certain higher temperature, once cured, but they will
never melt. Several of the powder suppliers also sell ceramic-based paints, which are the chemical equivalent of Jet-Hot. Some of these oven-cure, while others cure by the exhaust heat. As long as the substrate is prepared, both methods should work more or less the same. Sandblasting (not bead-blasting) roughs up the surface, and allows the powder and paint to bite into the object to be covered. I've been writing an article for the next issue of the newsletter all about DIY powder coating, so you can look for it in September. Both methods have similar limited color choices in the hi-temp line, due to the ceramic/metalic content. Mind you, keeping heat in the heads is good, as long as you are not detonating or overheating. Then...... it is bad. JJJ /// /// mgb-v8@autox.team.net mailing list /// Send admin requests to majordomo@autox.team.net /// Send list postings to mgb-v8@autox.team.net /// Edit your replies! If they include this trailer, they will NOT be sent. /// |
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