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Re: finishing questions

To: CraigFaubel@aol.com
Subject: Re: finishing questions
From: "James J." <m1garand@speakeasy.net>
Date: Sun, 11 Apr 2004 23:59:42 -0400
Cc: mgb-v8@autox.team.net
In-reply-to: <126.3e68ff22.2dab3952@aol.com>
References: <126.3e68ff22.2dab3952@aol.com>
Reply-to: "James J." <m1garand@speakeasy.net>
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Craig,
I'm still a crappy painter, but less crappy than I used to be. The following link is a great resource for painting and repair: http://www.autobodystore.com/

The owner is nice, and the discussion forum is great.

My advice is to take everything off for the sandblasting, and prime while it is apart. I'd recommend RustBullet or Master Series silver over epoxy any day. While the rule of thumb to not mix brands is true, both of these primers are fully-cured urethanes after 7 days, and nothing will cause them to bubble, peel, etc. You can even spray your brand of epoxy primer over them to start with a primer of your prefered brand. (I think laquer over epoxy is OK when the epoxy cures)

Then, when you are ready to paint, shoot the interior, engine bay, inside of hood, inside of trunk, inside of doors and the various areas that will be covered when these hatches are closed, such as the door-hinge and latch area. Once these are dry, assemble the car and spray the exterior with all the hatches closed.

I'd also recommend you look at some of the new urethane finishes. You can rub out blemishes, like with laquer, and then spray on the clear coat, and buff it to perfection. And unlike laquer, you can go two decades w/o the finish oxidizing and fading like laquer. IMHO, it's time to let laquer die (except as a wood finish).
Best of Luck!!! And for the love of God, make sure you use the best respirators you can buy!!
James J

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