I managed to get my Rover 3.5 MGB out for a few hundred mile trip last
weekend. After having several problems with the points. After a re-wire I
had a wire hooked up wrong to the points which fried out a set. I figured
out the problem installed a set of points from a Rover 3.5 which had sat for
about 8 years. She ran fine for a week but was a little rough at lower RPM.
Coming back from my trip I went through a construction site and came out of
that with a chance to pass 3 trailers. Hit 4000RPM and she dies, take a
quick look at the tach and it is dead, so it's definitely electrical.
Managed to get her started again but it was like she wasn't running on all 8
cylinders, moved her to a safer spot by keeping my foot pretty well to the
floor and tried to swap coils and points to no avail. I had to get her towed
( a rare occurrence) to the closest town. 294.00 Cdn.
The next day I bought an internally ballasted coil and pulled the ballast
resister wire from the power feed and from the coil. I also pulled the wires
from the relay to the coil which where for the starter by-pass. I ran a wire
from the switched white wires straight to the coil, so now 12 volts should
be going to the ballasted coil and this would also bypass's any wiring
problems I might have created during my renovation The car ran a little
better but was still un-drivable.
I figured that perhaps the points are shot so I might as well up grade the
distributor at this time as points are hard to get for the Rover here and
expensive. I ordered in a distributor for a latter model Buick V6 but there
is just no way this unit is going to fit under my hood. So out of curiosity
(in case I do have to replace the distributor) does any one know exactly
what latter model Buick V6 distributor is the one which will fit in my
application? And if it is a distributor for a V6 how do the 8 plug wires
hook up to a 6 cylinder distributor cap???
I have managed to get her towed home to my shop, another 300.00cdn and will
start to work on her tomorrow.
I don't think I have jumped a tooth on the timing chain as there is no
backfiring through the carb and I think even if I had she would have keep on
running but real rough?
I know it's not the coil as I have replaced it.
And I am sort of convinced it can't be the points as she will start and I
can see spark across them (But not totally convinced).
I am pretty sure it's not my wiring as I have run a wire from the switched
whites to the new coil.
I have a replacement Pertronic Igniter due to arrive soon and I am hoping
that will solve the problem. I will check for timing tomorrow by setting the
engine to TDC and making sure that #1 plug and rotor and piston all line up.
But if any one has any ideas on what to look for I would sure love to hear
them.
Thanks
Bruce
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