Chaz-
As you have found out, there are all levels of conversions, from simple to
the very complex. As a basic conversion, you need good mechanical skills,
but no welding or bodywork is required, since you are choosing a 1977 or
newer body.
Start by assembling all, or as many as possible, of the parts the conversion
will require. It can be frustrating to get started, then have to wait
because the part you need isn't on hand. The obvious big lumps are the
engine, bell housing, transmission, but don't forget the flywheel, pilot
busing & clutch pack. Can't put the engine in without motor mounts & the
engine adapters. You get the picture.
The basic conversion stars with removal of the original engine,
transmission, radiator. Label all the wires you remove, & gently move the
harness out of the way. Clean the engine bay. This may take more than one
weekend, but it makes everything easier, not to mention improved looks.
Assemble the drive train on the ground. If using a GM transmission such as
the T-5, use the McLeod hydraulic throw out bearing & do the adjustments
now. Bolt the motor mount adapters to the block, loosely bolt the rubber
mounts to the body. You will need the help of a friend & an engine hoist to
install the drive train. 2 hints- raise the rear of the car as much as
possible, get a hoist plate that bolts to the 4 bbl intake manifold as a
lift point for the engine hoist. Summit sells them as do others. Don't
expect everything to fit on the first try. You will need to do some work
with a large hammer, in future referred to as "BFH", on the top of the
transmission tunnel, near the front. This is why the assembly wouldn't go in
the first time.
Once in, support the rear of the engine with a floor jack & install the rear
cross member. Now you can level the car & finish installing the motor mount
bolts you couldn't get to line up before. This may take most of a morning.
Try to get the engine as low as possible. Since the rubber body mounts are
still(?) only snug, the BFH & a long bar can be used to locate them downward
before tightening. Put a level on the door sills & across the lower radiator
opening. Either level the car, or note the variances. Now check the top of
the intake manifold. The engine should be level left to right, & reasonably
close to level front to back. Adjust as required.
Install headers. It is helpful to remove the brake master, & perhaps the
booster. If using the RV8 style of headers, it will take at least half a day
to cut the holes in the inner fenders. You want the holes to be as small as
possible, yet allow some room for engine movement. Block hugger headers may
require some additional work to clear the steering, but no holes in the
fenders. You mat get away with dimpling the #3 tube. If so, heat to cherry
red with a MAPP gas torch & hammer gently so you don't tear the metal. I
like to lay a piece of 1/2" iron pipe on the header & pound on that.
Install that modified & recored radiator, 16" electric puller fan, start the
plumbing & wiring.
Depending upon the transmission used, you may have to do some fiddling with
the opening in the transmission tunnel for the shifter.
If you are going to swap rears, now is the time. Finally, get a drive shaft
made or modify yours as the case may be.
These are only the big lumps. With all the parts in hand, Glen Towery claims
to be able to do a conversion in a weekend, with one helper. Of course, this
is not Glen's first conversion.
D & D offers a pretty complete conversion package, up to & including the
engine in any stage of "hot" you want. Call D
an for a catalog 810 798 2491. Glen usually has an engine or 2 on the
shelf, & enough parts for a complete conversion 302 734 1243. Dan is a GM
tranny guy, Glen usually favors the Rover 5 speed. These are the only 2
sources I know of that can provide everything from the radiator to the rear
end.
If you want to get into specifics, e-mail me off list.
Jim Stuart
734
1243-----Original Message-----
From: owner-mgb-v8@autox.team.net [mailto:owner-mgb-v8@autox.team.net]On
Behalf Of Chaz S
Sent: Sunday, August 12, 2001 9:10 PM
To: mgb-v8@autox.team.net
Subject: Getting into it.... Possibly a repeat of my old post
I'm looking at buying a 77-older MGB for a (hopefully) easy conversion.
What
tools/skills/parts will I need to do this? I've found several websites on
doing this, but it seems like the comprehensive ones take a harder aproach
than neccesary for some benefit. I'm looking for a pretty basic conversion.
>From what I've picked up on so far, I shouldn't have to do anything major
such
as cutting or possibly even welding. Are there any 1-2-3 kits out there for
it? Thanks... I'll have more questions later :-)
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