I'm looking for the best way to lower my '78 MGB. I'm in the process of
installing the engine and wonder whether to lower it now or later.
Below is a message that I posted to the MGB mailing list along with a
very good reply from Jim Stuart and a link to a great web site, provided
by Paul Hunt. After looking at the web site I'm glad that all of the
body work was done to convert the car to chrome bumpers before I bought
it. After reading Jim's reply, I'm inclined to not lower the car right
now and just get the car on the road first. Especially since I still
have to add in the interior, wipers, heater and wire up all of the
electrical system (I started with pretty much a bare shell) before
getting the car on the road. Also I mounted my new tires and wheels
yesterday and it looks like rear fender clearance will be a little
tight. I know that I can switch to a wire wheel rear end assembly but
then I have to weld on mounts for the rear sway bar. So I'm thinking of
just getting the car on the road for now and worrying about lowering it
later. However, I would like some more opinions on the best way to
lower it - thanks!
Kevin
Message that I sent to the MGB list:
I am building an MG V8 using a '78 MGB bodyshell and a '62 Buick 215
V8. The bodyshell had been converted to chrome bumpers by the previous
owner, utilizing new fenders, bumpers, etc. The only problem is that
the ride height was never changed. While I hate to take the time to do
it now, I probably should lower the car now before I get the V8
installation completed, right now the engine is in the car and I can get
the hood shut over the air cleaner, but there are a lot of details to
attend to still. I'm wondering what the collective opinion is as to the
best way to lower the car to pre '74 ride height or a little lower. I
have plenty of chrome bumper B parts cars from which to take parts from,
however I will probably need to still have the steering column shaft
still go through the left hand motor mount. I guess that I have the
following questions:
1) Can I lower the rear end by simply substituting CBB (chrome bumper
B) rear springs? If I do, will the factory rear sway bar still work?
Because of the sway bar I hate swapping out rear axles.
2) Can I lower the front end by installing cut down springs and cutting
down the bump stops? I'm guessing that would probably not provide
enough spring travel. This would probably also increase negative
camber, but that would help from a handling standpoint.
3) If I bolt in a CBB front cross member can I still use the RBB
steering rack (perhaps with adapter plates)?
4) If I bolt in a CBB cross member and steering rack, will the steering
rack work with the '78 bodyshell? I'm using RV8 style headers so header
clearance around the steering rack really isn't an issue.
Thanks for the help.
Kevin Brown '78 MGB V8, '54 MGTF 1500 RHD, '66 MGB, '71 MGB, '74 TR6,
'89 MR2
Odessa, MO
Whether the car is a V8 or not, the same facts apply. Shortened springs
are the quick fix, but cause other problems, including a change in the
Ackerman angle in the front suspension, that tends to induce bump steer,
not a good thing at all. While there is a cure for this, it still leaves
the problem of reduced suspension travel & a higher spring rate,
resulting in a harsh(er) ride.
In my not so humble opinion, the only correct way to lower the car is by
using a CB front cross member & springs. I have tried the shortened
springs, tried the Moss coil over suspension, & lowered 2 cars by
changing the cross member, so I have a basis for my opinion.
In the rear, if you elect to change to the CB springs, you are only part
way there, because the front eye mounting point changed with the RB
cars, so you will have to locate the boss that still remains, drill it
out & weld in reinforcing to change to the early springs. If the car is
not for serious track or auto cross use, you can get by with a set of
lowering blocks. Fine for normal driving, as I have several hundred
thousand miles on this set up, but for the 1 auto cross car, I changed
the mounting points.
You can use the late rack with the early cross member, but the shaft
will have to be shortened & the rack mounting pads massaged to change
the mounting angle to lower the shaft so it will meet the steering
column.
There is recently another way to lower the cat in front that I have not
tried. One of the SCAA racers has developed a dropped spindle that will
lower the car approximately 1" without any other mods, & without causing
any ill effects. No first hand info on this, suggest you consult the MG
V8 list. The only down side is that it only lowers by 1"n not 1 1/2"
that you can get by changing the cross member.
Jim Stuart
Paul Hunt also sent this useful link:
You migh t like to have a look at
http://www.mgb-chrome-alone.freeserve.co.uk/
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