I've also found it beneficial to locate the wheel with a couple of tapered
wheel/lug nuts just nipped up before fitting the first two tubular nuts.
Never had any problem with them coming loose, though, 'cept where I didn't
tighten them up properly - once - on a Scimitar.
PaulH.
----- Original Message -----
From: KILE, PAUL D <Paul.Kile@Aerojet.com>
To: <FJ40Jim@aol.com>; <DANMAS@aol.com>
Cc: <mgb-v8@autox.team.net>
Sent: Thursday, June 29, 2000 5:21 PM
Subject: RE: Another wheel question, wheel spacers?
> Interesting discussion. FYI, the Factory MGB-GT V-8 uses tubular lugnuts
on
> their wheels (a Dunlop styled aluminum center with chromed steel rim,
> similar to a Reliant Scimitar wheel). The factory manual recommends
> checking the torque on the lugnuts WEEKLY!
>
> Cheers,
> Paul Kile
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: FJ40Jim@aol.com [mailto:FJ40Jim@aol.com]
> Sent: Thursday, June 29, 2000 8:13 AM
> To: DANMAS@aol.com
> Cc: mgb-v8@autox.team.net
> Subject: Re: Another wheel question, wheel spacers?
>
>
> Dan,
> You raise a good point about the tubular lug nuts. I have used them w/
> Cragar brand wheels on american cars, w/ totally unsatisfactory results.
> But, I have also used them on race cars (MG's) and street cars (MG's &
> Sunbeams) in combination w/ Revolution brand alloys and had excellent
> results. The Revolution system has a precision hole in the wheel, and the
> lug nuts have a beveled shoulder to get them started in the hole, then
they
> are uniform diameter up to the washerhead on the nut. The advantage to
this
>
> system is that the wheel is stronger because the lug is only applying a
> clamp
> load to the wheel, rather than trying to wedge apart a conventional
> taperseat
> wheel. So, if you can find good quality wheels that are designed for use
w/
>
> a precision tubular lug nut, go for it. But stay away from the made in
USA,
>
> one size fits all "furrin cars" wheels.
>
> HTH,
> Jim Chenoweth
> Lancaster, Ohio, USA
> '78 MGB & a pile of 5.0 parts
>
> In a message dated 6/28/00, DANMAS@aol.com writes:
> > > Just a thought -- there are a few different types of wheel bolts out
> there
> > > -- what about the type which has a long thread length and actually
> goes
> > > along the stud inside the mag rather than just wedging the outside
of
> the
> > > wheel?-- you could even have the bolt go inside your spacer, as long
> as
> > it does not bottom against the brake drum/disc.
> >
> > Paul,
> > I have a very serious concern about using the type of lug nuts you
> mention.
> > Unless they are a very precise fit, there is nothing to center the
wheel,
>
> or
> > to keep it from moving as you drive. Without a precise fit, the only
> thing
> > that locates the wheel is the friction of the nut. If it is a precise
> fit,
> > the wheels will be hard to get on and off. I bought a set of mag type
> wheels
> > awhile back with those nuts, and there was so much play around the lug
> nuts
> > that the wheel could be moved by hand a pretty good bit if the nuts
> weren't
> > very tight. The nuts couldn't be tightened enouigh to prevent movement
as
>
> the
> > car bounced over potholes, etc. If the wheels do move, wear will loosen
> the
> > nuts, and the movement will get worse.
> > The other kind of lug nuts, with the tapered seat, automatically
locates
> the
> > wheel, and will keep it in place even if the nuts are slightly loose. I
> know
> > a lot of wheels come with the type of nuts you mention, but I'm afraid
of
>
> > them.
> > Just a thought. Anyone else care to comment? Am I overly cautious?
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