Just FYI, those two ridges around tubeless tire type wheels is to prevent
sudden deflation of a tire when subjected to side loads.
It's a safety item.
Now, I know the list will be inundated with "I've been driving on tubeless
tires since 1622 with no trouble, so that's baloney".
I've been flying airplanes since 1968, never had any accident or incident
outside of a systems failure.
I still use those checklists. A conservative mode of operation is the safest
way.
Besides, just think how stupid you would feel as the wheel dug in and the car
started to turn over!
Dying is one thing. Dying stupid is another.
No dog in the hunt, so do as you will.
Sent from my Verizon Wireless Phone
----- Reply message -----
From: "Mike E" <redscirocco@hotmail.com>
To: "Gene" <crownwheel@comcast.net>, "'Richard" <Lindsay'
<richardolindsay@gmail.com>, <>>, "mg-t@autox.team.net" <mg-t@autox.team.net>
Subject: [Mg-t] Resolution, was: Wheels seal?
Date: Mon, May 20, 2013 09:53
There are many and varying opinions on which tires to use, and whether to use
tubes or not. The best solution might be to find bias ply tires that are
designed for tubes and that don't have a bead for modern wheels. Good luck!
Otherwise, I don't see any improvement in putting a tube in a modern tire that
wasn't designed to have a tube. The surface and sidewalls of a tire are
constantly flexing and releasing as they come in contact with the surface of
the road. There is tremendous centrifugal force exerted on the outer portion
of the tire. Tube tires have a different inner profile (smooth, round) than a
tube tire (not not smooth, not round, but flatish on the bottom and rounded on
the sides). The idea of adding an air bladder that is unnecessary for
maintaining air pressure inside a tire that isn't designed to have a tube
wouldn't make me feel confident at all.
And what of the tire pressure? Would you use the one recommended in the
manual that was originally intended for bias-ply tube tires? That could be a
pretty bad idea since, again, the tire isn't shaped, designed, or constructed
like the original tube-type tire. You'll need more, but how much more? How
much more will you need to ensure that the tube isn't flopping around or
rubbing a rough spot in the tubeless tire?
I don't know that any insurance company is going to reject a claim because of
non-OEM-spec tires, but if they do, I don't think sticking a tube in a
tubeless, beaded tire on a tube-type wheel is going to gain you much traction
(pun intended) with the adjuster over a tubeless, beaded tire on a tube-type
wheel.
My TF has had modern tubeless radial tires on the stock steel wheels for at
least 30 years, and I've never had an unexplained air leak or any problem with
spirited driving. I run them at about 25 PSI.
-Mike
> From: crownwheel@comcast.net
> To: richardolindsay@gmail.com; mg-t@autox.team.net
> Date: Fri, 17 May 2013 17:24:22 -0400
> Subject: Re: [Mg-t] Resolution, was: Wheels seal?
>
> A cautionary note. Looking at this in the loss-prevention line, I would not
> want to be involved in an accident as a result of having tubeless tyres on
a
> wheel designed for tube type tyres and having the insurance carrier refuse
> coverage.
> Gene
> Vermont
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: mg-t-bounces@autox.team.net [mailto:mg-t-bounces@autox.team.net] On
> Behalf Of Richard Lindsay
> Sent: Thursday, May 16, 2013 11:28 AM
> To: mg-t@autox.team.net
> Subject: [Mg-t] Resolution, was: Wheels seal?
>
> Thanks everyone for the valued responses.
>
> My decision is to go for radial tires in 165R15 size, tubeless on media
> blasted, trued (as needed) and refinished wheels, using new stems. If the
> metal is pitted in any way around the stem opening, I'll use metal bolt-in
> stems as they may seal better. Again, thanks everyone.
>
> -rick
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