There are those who refuse to use detergent oils, presumably because the TDs
were not filled with them at Abingdon. The sludge and asphalt found in the
sumps can usually be attributed to this obsolete oil. That the screen was
blocked with red silicone does not speak well of the engine rebuilder.
Rubber o ring might be useful. I've never seen it done, though, and I don't
think of vibration there being a problem.
I would stay with the 010 mains. Removing metal is something I prefer to
avoid.
Rod journals are a more difficult decision. You have measured them. I would
try Plastigage too, just to check the measurements.
My concern is that XPAG cranks are prone to cracking, and the most vulnerable
place is at rod journals. The cause is thought to be tight radius. My
preference is, again, to avoid removing metal, especially here, as the radius
can't easily be relieved, to use 20-50 oil, and to watch its temperature. I am
interested to read other thoughts on this question.
I recommend having the crankshaft checked for cracks before you invest more
effort. The "ring" test is not sufficient for these-- mine rang perfectly with
its visible crack at #2 rod.
Replacement of front seal is easy. I forget now whose seal I used, but it's
quick, cheap, easy and effective.
I stuck with original type of rear seal. It does drip, perhaps a
quarter-size drip at the end of a long run. That's more than some that have
the lip seal conversion and less(a lot less) than some that have it.
Bob
---------- Original Message ----------
From: PopeyMike@aol.com
To: mg-t@autox.team.net
Subject: [Mg-t] Engine internals
Date: Fri, 22 Feb 2013 11:55:47 -0500 (EST)
Removing the oil pan found bottom 2" full of thick gunk and no oil -
probably where most of oil problems were originating.
The oil suction dip tube and screen were removed and found blocked with red
silicone gasketing material.
1. All is cleaned up. But when the screen cup is reinstalled should the
lip at the top have a rubber o-ring to seal it from the suction dome and
minimize vibration?
2. The main journal bearing original is 52mm
current main bearing +.010" ~ +0.254mm
_____________________________________
combined 51.746mm
Current Crank main dia 51.72
Yielding Diametric clearance 0.026 mm
Acceptable is 0.020 to 0.075mm according to Horst Schach
here is where the problem starts - the mains show a little minor wear that
can be dressed up with polishing -so should I just polish and install new
same size +0.010" main bearing or choose to grind and resize for new +0.020"
main bearings??
3. The connecting rod bearings similar problem but more delicate
Original 45 mm
Current rod bearing +0.030" ~ 0.762 mm
___________________________________________
Combined 44.238 mm
Current crank rod dia 44.14
Yielding Diametric clearance 0.098 mm
Acceptable is 0.11 to 0.056mm according to Horst Schach
would you recommend just polishing or installing bigger +0.040 rod bearings
4. Has anyone used the Volvo seal solution for the front with success??
5. Since I am short on funds and looking for work - I do not want to do
the rear screw Archimedes seal - but it shows no signs of leaking after
12,000 miles - so I plan to leave it alone unless someone can recommend a
cheap
solution that will improve the odds that I will not have leaks.
Thanks everyone that has responded on my other problems.
MIchael Balahutrak
53 TD engine #10525
Houston, TX
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Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
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