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Re: [Mg-t] Rusty nuts

To: TATERRY@aol.com
Subject: Re: [Mg-t] Rusty nuts
From: "Dave and Liz DuBois" <ddubois@sinclair.net>
Date: Wed, 14 Oct 2009 19:39:20 -0700 (PDT)
I wonder what size bolt and nut was used in this experiment since most
bolts on our cars would shear off long before 516 ftlbs was reached (often
the quickest and most expedient method of dealing with rusted fasteners as
long as a replacement is easily obtained.  Also, one of the best method I
have come across for getting stuck fasteners loose is to heat the joint as
hot as possible and then touch candle wax to the joint, then let it cool
and pull the wax into the joint.  Most of the time this works very well.
Cheers,
Dave




> A friend sent me this....interesting!!
> Terry in Oakland
>
> For those who do their own restoration work, here's some interesting
> comparisons on penetrating oils.
>
> Machinist's Workshop magazine actually tested penetrates for break-out
> torque on rusted nuts. They arranged a subjective test of all the popular
> penetrates with the control being the torque required to remove the nut
> from a
> "scientifically rusted" environment.
>
>
>
> *Penetrating Oil and Average Load*
>
>
> Nothing..................... 516 pounds
>
>
> WD-40....................... 238 pounds
>
>
> PB Blaster................ 214 pounds
>
>
> Liquid Wrench......... 127 pounds
>
>
> Kano Kroil............... 106 pounds
>
>
> ATF-Acetone mix..... 53 pounds
>
>
>
> The ATF-Acetone mix was a "home brew" mix of 50-50 automatic transmission
> fluid and acetone. Note the "home brew" was better than any commercial
> product in this one particular test.  Note also that "Liquid Wrench" is
> about as
> good as "Kroil" for about 20% of the price
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