Reason that the axles break are:
Poor design. The splines used to be cut into the axle. This created a
stress point where
the splines stopped at the axle shaft. Newer designs have the shaft
tapered to meet the
root of the splines. This moves the stress point farther along the axle
shaft, which is a good
thing.
Worn u-joints, flanges, splines on drive shaft. Sloppy u-joint fits on
a driveshaft will
transfer the "snap" from the slop along the shaft, and to the pinion
gear. The ring gear then
gets all this extra momentum, and the axles receive the energy.
Check your drive shaft, since you are down anyway.
John Seim
Irvine, CA
On Jan 22, 2009, at 8:07 AM, Stuart C. Keen, Jr. wrote:
> While in my driveway yesterday, I started the engine, then placed the
> TD
> into reverse - resulting in a LOUD BANG and no movement. Jacked up the
> rear,
> and with engine running, put transmission in gear. The drive shaft
> appears
> to be rotating properly, and universal coupling to the differential
> seems
> good - but neither rear wheel rotates. In fact, with engine off, I can
> freely rotate both rear wheels. Previously, there was always
> considerable
> drag and it was difficult to rotate either by hand.
>
> What has snapped or broken? From this layman's point of view, it is
> either
> the differential (ring or pinion) OR the axle.
>
> I cannot pull either of the rear wheels outward which I suspect might
> be
> possible if the axle was broken (or is there something preventing the
> outward movement?). Also, if it was the axle, then would BOTH wheels be
> affected, not just one?
>
> I am looking for some enlightenment before I drag the TD off to the
> British
> repair shop - or, if simple enough, do it myself.
>
> Stu Keen
> 1951 MG TD Mark II
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