John,
The oil drained out of the steering rack because of the torn boots. I have
the same problem - I've got to get two new boots on.
If you put a few strokes of the recommended oil (90 weight hypoid, I believe)
your steering should improve. Of course, it will drain out again, and again,
until you get new boots.
-Mike Eldred
'54 TF 1250> From: gunnellj@athenet.net> To: mg-t@autox.team.net> Date: Sun,
22 Jun 2008 17:24:34 -0500> Subject: [Mg-t] Two Problems> > All> > This was a
bad week. I "broke" two T Series. Need some feedback on problems> and
solutions.> > Drove MG TF about 500 mileson two trips. Last trip was 160
miles. Everything> OK. Stopped for lunch. Took off after lunch and steering
had tightened up> tremendously. Could just about steer home. Took tie rod ends
off. Problem is> in the rack. Bouth boots (gaitors) were not very old but both
were torn. I> have since been told that boots being sold now are too short.
Better to use> longer MGB boots with MG T clamps. So what is the quality of
rack rebuilding> parts being sold today? Does anyone have experience? And
would you just buy> all new parts or would you tear down, inspect, replace bad
parts and keep as> many good old parts as possible?> > Problem 2. With TF
down, we took the well-worn TD out of mothballs and drove> it 20 miles to a
club gathering. On way back (alone) we stopped to top off the> tank with high
test (no ethonol). As soon as we left the filling station, the> engine started
racing at 2,500 + rpm by itself. We worked it into gear and> limped home the
20 miles at 30 mph or better without ever touching the> accelerator. The choke
cable and carb linkage all seemed to be OK in a> roadside check. If I start
car now, it will immediately race at 2500 + rpm.> Anyone have a similar
experience? Any idea of cause or how to repair.> > John Gunnell> PO Box 87>
Iola, WI 54945> 715-445-4262> gunnellj@athenet.net>
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