One more point of view on the oil-drip problem:
While normally we regard Blower's Manual as reliable, we recently discovered
one major difference between its recommendations and the factory Workshop
Manual's: procedure for installation of the rear main bearing cork seal and
the sump gasket.
Blower's says to install the cork seal, then cement the sump gasket to the
sump and bolt up the sump.
The Workshop Manual says emphatically that the sump gasket should be
cemented to the BLOCK , stating that "it is important to ensure that the
ends of the sump gasket fit snugly into the recesses in the ends of the rear
bearing cap cork seal." When you then install the cork seal, the
"shoulders" sit on top of the sump gasket.
Doing it Blower's way, just before the last Glen GOF, resulted in a worse
oil leak than before--a dinner-plate-size pool every time the engine was
shut off, and drips while it was running. We just re-did it the
Workshop-Manual way, and now have only the normal coin-sized drip. (We'll
probably be pulling the engine this winter, and will go with the modern Moss
seal replacement.)
Sarah Carr
TD3942EXLU in Penna.
----- Original Message -----
From: "Bob Donahue" <bobmgtd@insightbb.com>
To: "Nels Anderson" <nels@flightsim.com>
Cc: <mg-t@autox.team.net>
Sent: Wednesday, August 01, 2007 9:23 PM
Subject: Mystery Pin
> That's a 'normal' motor oil leak. The hole is to drain the motor oil that
> leaks into the clutch housing. The cotter pin is supposed to bounce around
> and keep the hole from plugging up. A teaspoon or so of oil comes out of
> this hole every time the engine stops, but not when the engine is running
> (something about an oil thrower/slinger). I'm sure someone will explain
> how this
> works.
>
> Bob Donahue (Still Stuck in the '50s)
> Email - bobmgtd@insightbb.com
> Cars: 52 MGTD - #17639
> 71 MGB - #GHN5UB254361
> Member: NEMGTR #11470
> NAMGBR # 7-3336
> Hoosier MGB Club
> Olde Octagons of Indiana
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