Thanks Nels, but it just gets weirder and weirder... Like I said, I had
5.84 volts on the negative side of that battery checking it out to a ground
on the car.
I popped the pos lead on the battery and put it back on and viola!
12.51volts on the negative lead ground to the car...
So I turned the key in the ignition and I've got horn and the clock works so
I'm good to go...
Pull the starter and nothing. Everything goes dead. Check the negative
ground to the car and I'm back down to 5.45 volts.
Sooooo....
It's really had to check anything when you have no power at all, but I'm
starting to wonder about the ammeter as all roads lead to it...
All and any help still appreciated,
Scott
On 4/29/06, Nels Anderson <nels@flightsim.com> wrote:
>
> Well, it's possible to have a connection that reads OK with a voltmeter,
> but has enough resistance that when you actually try to draw current
> through it, it effectively does not work. I had that happen to me on a
> tail light last fall...I'd check the voltage in the socket and it read
> correctly, but with a bulb inserted the bulb would not light up. Turned
> out to be bad wiring; replacing the wire and making a good soldered
> connection and it worked.
>
> You may have a mechanically good ground, but not an electrically good
> ground. It can't hurt to remove the ground wire and clean it. If it's
> really bad you made need to physically scrape it clean, otherwise some
> sort of electrical contact cleaner is called for.
>
> Or if the problem is in the ignition switch, as your follow up
> mentioned, it could be the switch has gone bad, or again it may be a bad
> electrical connection that can be fixed with a good cleaning. When I
> first got my TD a couple of years ago the horn would not work. I took
> the switch apart and the contacts were GREEN...that happens to copper
> after 50 years!
>
> --Nels
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