What Andy described is a fix I have used for many years with great success
on TCs, TDs and TFs. However, I believe Andy must have read the instructions
upside down {VBG} - as Bob surmised, the holes should be drilled near the
flared end to allow the air to escape when the tank is being filled.
Drilling them at the cut end just limits the amount of gas that can be put
into the tank (though, with current gas prices, that might not be a bad
idea!)
Lawrie
British Sportscar Center
----- Original Message -----
From: "Bob Howard" <mgbob@juno.com>
To: <drmoyce@ent-oakland.com>
Cc: <mg-t@autox.team.net>
Sent: Thursday, June 23, 2005 1:20 PM
Subject: Re: gas tank cap seal
> Hi Andy,
> Great idea. I understand the principle of it. You wrote the drilled
> holes are at the cut end, which I assume is the bottom, immersed end.
> How full can you fill the tank? How does displaced air escape once the
> fuel level reaches top of the drilled holes? Is there a second set of
> drilled holes near the filler top?
> Bob
>
>
> On Thu, 23 Jun 2005 12:33:04 -0700 "drmoyce" <drmoyce@ent-oakland.com>
> writes:
> > Easiest upgrade for my TD was to fix the sloshing of gas when the
> > tank
> > is full. Get a flared piece of bathroom drainpipe from the hardware
> > store (the straight piece with a flared end, 1 1/4" diameter.) Cut
> > to
> > about 3 1/2 to 4" , preserving the flared end, of course. Drill 2
> > 1/4"
> > holes across from each other near the cut end. Put the pipe into
> > the
> > gas filler, pad the flared end with a scrap of wood, and pound it
> > down
> > until flush.
> > 15 minutes work, $3.00 in parts and no more overflow.
> >
> > This isn't my original, but works fine. The 1/4 inch holes may
> > serve
> > some fluid dynamic purpose, but if I ever needed to remove the pipe
> > they
> > could be used to get purchase on the pipe to lift it out.
> >
> > Andy Moyce
> > 52 TD
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