One of the most common sources of rear axle breakage, is a worn drive
shaft. With a sloppy fit of the u-joints to the front and/or rear
flanges, a slight "snap" is transmitted with each shift. Have the
driveshaft checked out by a shop that specializes in drive shaft
repair. New parts are generally readily available, with the exception of
the weld yoke. Components are made by Eaton and Dana/Spicer, so you
don't have to worry if they can locate the correct parts.
The axle design is somewhat a problem as well. By cutting splines into
the round stock, a weak spot was created. Had the axle been turned down
to the root diameter of the splines, there would be much less stress
concentrated at the spline/shaft area. Tapering the shaft, from the
spline area, to the bearing area, further reduces the rigidity of the
rod. Tapering allows the shaft to twist, instead of snap. Thicker is not
better. Hot rodders stumbled upon this trick while trying to decrease
weight.
John Seim
Irvine, CA
Charlie Baldwin wrote:
> It seems that it is a common occurrence to hear of someone with a TD
> or TF breaking an axle shaft. This would lead one to believe that the
> original axle shafts are marginal in strength or resistance to fatigue
> failure. Many in the T series community have done something to
> increase the power of their engine, whether it be supercharging or
> tuning by some other means. If the axle shafts are inherently weak,
> then how do these hopped up street cars or racers fair? Do they break
> axle shafts with regularity? Perhaps the currently available shafts
> have much better strength due to better design or metallurgy.
> Is there anyone on the list who races his TD or TF or has done
> something to substantially increase the power? What have you done to
> avoid broken shafts? If they are available, who supplies stronger
> shafts and approximately how much power can they handle?
> TIA,
> Charlie Baldwin
> '52 TD, York, PA
> working on a friends TD with lots of HP
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