John,
I've been using a fair amount of POR 15 lately on my Austin Healey
3000. You are correct that it doesn't seem to want to stick really well
to smooth bare steel. Usually, however, it isn't really very smooth
anymore on our old cars. What I have done is sanded the smooth metal
with 80 or 100 grit sand paper enough to give it a bit of a rough
surface to give the POR something to grab. You also may need more than
one coat to get it to cover properly. If you have access to any sand
blasting equipment that is also a ggod way to roughen up the steel. I
have a spot blaster that blasts a quarter sized spot at a time.
Sometimes I just connect a bunch of quarter sized spots to do a larger
area without making a mess. This works best on vertical surfaces.
Charlie
'52 TD, '62 AH 3000, etc.
Gunnell, John wrote:
>Hi Mates
>
> Here I go again with my patented dumb questions.
>
> How much air should I put in the TD tires? It has P165-15 radials. Shop
>manual says 18 psi or something low like that. The tire sidewalls say 44 psi.
>
> Before putting the rebuilt rear shocks on the TF I want to paint up the
>frame in that area. When I cleaned the road gook there were large bare metal
>sections. I know the best way to finish a rusty frame, but how do I get the
>POR-15 to stick on the bare metal portions? I'm working from underneath with
>the car on a 4-post lift, so access is pretty good, but not great.
>
> By the way, there's still plenty of snow piles here in Iola, Wis., but I
>brought the TD to work today as the temperature is in the mid-40s and the
>roads are all clear.
>
>John Gunnell
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