I have several rear cylinders that were corroded so tightly that I never
did get them loose even using the technique that Bud has described. The
problem is the dissimilar metals with a steel piston and aluminum
cylinder. I had some older ones that had steel cylinders. When I
bought new ones to replace those, I threw the steel cyl. ones away.
Anyway the real solution for me was to buy new rear cyls. and have them
sleeved in brass. That was probably more than ten years ago and have
had no problems since. Before that the rear cyls would lock up every
two to three years. Using the car more would also help along with
keeping you brake fluid fresh by changing it regularly (one of those
jobs that never gets done as often as it should)
The extra sheet metal around the hole is probably to keep the actual
backing plate from wearing away so that when it wears it can be replaced.
Bud Krueger wrote:
Hi Bill,
The most effective technique is with the use of a grease gun. Jury-rig
up a few parts to allow you to squeeze grease into the cylinder. The
piston will ooze out very nicely. I wonder if the purpose of that thin
piece of steel isn't just to act as a bearing surface to help the
cylinder move up and down.
Bud Krueger
52TD
William T Snyder wrote:
Hello List. I am having trouble disassembling particularly the rear brake
cylinders on my '53 TD project. I have been able to remove the dust
cover, outer piston with seal, and the handbrake pin and lever. The
hydraulic pistons are another story. I was able the push out the front
cylinder pistons with compressed air, but the rears won't budge. I have
them soaking now in liquid wrench. Does anyone know any tricks to get
them loose without boogering them up beyond useability? Also, what is the
necessity of the thin piece of steel brazed to the inside of the brake
gear back plate that surrounds the opening for the brake cylinder?
Thanks in advance for your input.
Bill Snyder
'53 TD slowly being reassembled
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