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Re: Brake/Stop Light Switch

To: Dave & Liz DuBois <ddubois@sinclair.net>
Subject: Re: Brake/Stop Light Switch
From: Bud Krueger <budkrueger@earthlink.net>
Date: Fri, 11 Jul 2003 06:38:50 -0400
FYI,  the NAPA/Echlin SL144 is the grub screw version.  It's strictly an 
lbc switch, i.e., 55-63 Austin, 48-64 English Ford, 51-56 MG, 49-64 
Morris, 48-64 Rover, 49-64 Singer and 50-64 Triumph.  Their SL147 is a 
blade terminal switch with a similar lbc list including 57-70 MG.

Bud Krueger
52TD

Dave & Liz DuBois wrote:

> Your problem is burned contacts in the switch. The burned condition 
> causes a high resistance and when current is drawn by the light bulbs, 
> all of the voltage is dropped across the switch.  This is why you see 
> a voltage in a no load condition and no voltage when the bulbs are 
> hooked up.   The contacts are sealed behind a diaphragm, so there is 
> nothing you can do to clean them.  I am not sure if the Echlin part 
> number that Bud quotes is for the T series cars (grub screw 
> connections) or for the later MGs with the spade lug connections, just 
> ask for a switch for a 54 or 55 TF at NAPA and they will find it 
> listed (but not for the Much older TD).  I have to disagree with Ted, 
> the fitting should be 1/8" British Standard Pipe thread and not 
> tapered (all of the pipe threads on the T series cars are straight 
> rather than tapered pipe.  Some previous owner may have put a switch 
> on Ted's car with tapered threads and distorted the fitting.  The 
> Echlin switches may have an American thread, which is 1 thread per 
> inch different from British, and while they will thread together ok, 
> there may be enough interference to cause a leak. I always wrap the 
> threads with teflon pipe tape to insure a good seal.
>
> I would suggest adding a relay to the brake light circuit to remove 
> the heavy current from the brake light switch. The replacement 
> switches sold today are extremely light duty and don't hold up to the 
> 3 amps drawn by the brake lights for very long before the contacts 
> burn again (I have had them burn in just two weeks).  This is 
> something you can do after your event this weekend and then you will 
> not have to worry about the switch in the future.  I have a write up 
> and drawing for makeing this modification if you are interested.
>
> Good luck,
> Dave

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