A common problem, Rick! When you feel that you just can't hit it any harder
for fear of cracking the pump housing, you may want to resort to trying to
drive a thin, strong blade between the pump and the block - for example, a
gasket scraper. Then prying tools of increasing thickness and strength.
Eventually it will come off (and, yes, you have undone all the bolts - there
are no hidden ones). Any gouges made in the base of the pump can be dressed
later with a file, or filled with JB weld and then filed flat.
Lawrie
British Sportscar Center
-----Original Message-----
From: Rick & Carolyn <walters@mail.softcom.net>
To: mgt <mg-t@autox.team.net>
Date: Thursday, November 02, 2000 9:05 PM
Subject: Oil Pump removal
>Hi All,
>
>Well I'm at the point of restoration that I started with. A engine
>blowing smoke out the draft tube. I found a DPO or a scam job
>occurred. On three pistons the top ring was removed. They are not in
>the pan or head. The forth was broken. Man I hate shoddy workmanship.
>The awful noise I heard before I took her off the road was actually the
>bottom skirt of number three piston falling off. At least it didn't
>score the cylinder walls.
>
>Now My main problem is I can't get the oil pump case off the engine. Is
>there a trick to it. I have tapped it with a dead blow to no avail. It
>ain't moving. According to the book I don't have remove the drive gear
>as it all comes out with the pump. Is there a hidden bolt some where
>I'm not seeing? I have the 8 bolts out that hold on the cover and
>removed the driven gear like the book says. It is a late TD with the
>intregal oil filter attached. I'm at a loss. I even tried rapping it
>lightly with a ballpean hammer to see if the shock of metal to metal
>would loosen it. No way, it is on there good.
>
>TIA
>
>Rick
>
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