There is no reason why you can't make the base of the carbs bone dry. After
you have done all the obvious, there are two sources that are often
overlooked.
First, there is a copper washer (bottom half) that slides over the jet
bearing. If it doesn't seal perfectly, there will be leaks. Make sure
there are no burrs or debris that hinder sealing. Compared to today's
after-market copper washers, I am told that the original washers were much
softer and consequently sealed better. Often times, removing the copper
washer and heating it with a torch will soften it sufficiently. If that
doesn't work, use Permatex Hylomar as a sealer on the washer. And if that
doesn't do the trick, replace the copper washer with a neoprene o-ring.
The second sometimes missed source of leaks is the jet head. In some cases,
the jet head screws onto the jet and becomes loose. If you have this
situation, apply Loctite and carefully tighten. If you are really careful,
soldering is better. Better yet, replace the jet assembly with a newer one
that is a complete unit.
Ben
54 TF 1500
----- Original Message -----
From: <BobMGT@aol.com>
To: <mg-t@autox.team.net>
Sent: Sunday, August 06, 2000 8:39 PM
Subject: Is this a leak or not?
> The bottom of the jets on my TD's carbs are always wet with gas. The back
one
> is just wet. If you touch your finger to it, then smell your finger; it
> smells like gas. The front one usually has a half drop of gas at the
bottom
> that never grows large enough to drip off. (I've left the pump on and
watched
> the carbs for quit a while and never observed an actual drip.) The carbs
have
> brand new cork jet seals. Is this amount of leakage normal?
>
> Bob Donahue (Still stuck in the '50s)
> EMAIL - BOBMGT@AOL.COM
> 52 MGTD - under DIY restoration NEMGTR #11470
> 71 MGB - AMGBA #96-12029, NAMGBR #7-3336
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