Chris,
Maybe the following will be of some help.
Years ago, i fitted my TC with an aftermarket system called a "H-B
Trafficator", intended for use of a TD. In essence, it consists of a
3-position rotary switch which, in the neutral position connects sidelights
(both front & rear) and brake lights in the normal way, but when turned
either to the right or left, it isolates the brake lights from each other,
and connects one brake light through a simple flasher, but the other brake
light continues to receive current via the stop-light switch at the master
cylinder. (Notice, NO RELAYS & NO DIODES, just a simple switch!) I mounted
the switch with its shaft passing through the dashboard, just to the right of
the tach, where it is easily used without removing my hand from the steering
wheel. (It could also have been mounted below the dash on a simple angle
bracket, if one wanted to make it nearly invisible, albeit less convenient to
use) Obviously, I also had to add a second "D-lamp" to the rear of the car, a
nd run wires to the rear (one for each brake light; another shared by the
running lights).
Since then, I've added a couple of "refinements", as follows:
1) I wanted indicator lights to show me what was going on. Radio Shack has
a range of tiny 12-volt lamps used as pilot lamps in electronic circuits -
they are about 1/4 inch in diameter, and come in several different colors; I
chose green. I mounted mine on simple black-painted aluminum brackets, which
hold them just below the bottom edge of the dash, where they can be seen when
lighted, but are very inconspicuous when off. While I was at it, since I'd
had problems with the original brake-light switch not always working, I wired
one of these tiny lights so that it comes on when the brakes are applied.
(Not necessary, but it's nice to know that your brake lights are actually
working!) {One could even wire in yet another flasher and switch system to
give a 4-way hazzard warning arrangement, but I won't go into that right
now.}
2). I installed 2-contact sockets in my front wing lights to replace the
original single contact ones. One filament functions as a running light; the
second (higher wattage) filament handles the trafficator duties.
3) After being pulled over for inadequate rear lighting, I made up a
REMOVABLE light bar for the rear, which holds two LARGE round tail lights
originally made for boat trailer use. (Prettier lights are no doubt
available--I used these mostly because I already had them!) The bar fits
between the spare tire and the fuel tank, above the spare tire bracket,
giving the lights a high, easily-seen position, and is held in place using a
couple of eyebolts and bungee cords hooked to the spare wheel's spokes. The
light bar is thus ELECTRICALY ISOLATED from the TC until it is plugged in to
a connector, which provides the necessary ground connection, as well as the
current to power the lights. The permanently-mounted "D-lights" continue to
function whether or not the light bar is in use. For shows, the whole light
bar assembly can be removed in less than a minute with NO tools, leaving no
visible evidence behind except for the hidden connector. The light bar fits
into the boot when not in use.
(A fringe benefit of this mounting system and the use of a plug-in
connector is that it provides a fool-proof way to have tail lights on the car
if it is being towed by another vehicle, without having to worry about
incompatible electrical grounds between the two vehicles.)
*****
This description sounds more complicated than the actual setup really is.
If you're interested, I still have the annotated wiring diagram, which I can
post on the TABC website (assuming I can get my scanner to cooperate), and I
MAY be able to identify a suitable RadioShack switch.
My system has been in use for several years now with no problems, and I
feel it was well worth the time & effort.
Hope this helps.
Regards,
Carl Fritz
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