Bob,
I've got concur with Lee. I'm also no expert but I have had my 52TD totally
apart and put it back together. I just did a ring and rod bearing replacement
on
my 77MGB without removing the engine. That was not an easy task. It was
exceptionally difficult
to keep from soiling the crank journals. And---- that's an engine where the
pistons can come out of the top of the cylinders! You may not be aware of the
fact that the TD's rods are larger than the cylinder bore and must be
inserted/removed from the bottom. It's much easier with the engine upside down
on
a bench or stand. Good luck.
Bud Krueger
52TD
77MGB
streepey wrote:
> Bob:
>
> I'm not a pro at his kind of stuff. I'm a LONG time MG -T owner. Had a
> problem similiar to this in 1975 after a trip to Bend, OR to a GOF . My
> suggestion to you is to pull the engine, check the cylinders and do
> whatever is needed.
>
> Install a NEW set of pistons, check the rods and everything else that
> moves. If you don't you are liable to destroy the whole engine
>
> Lee
> 1953 MG TD "The Pumpkin"
>
> I removed the cylinder head on my TD to have it rebuilt by a local shop. (By
> >local I mean it's in the same state, 120 miles away.) With the pistons
> >exposed I discovered number four had a chunk along the edge missing. This
> >left a hole though which one can see the top ring, or a piece of the ring.
> >I'm not sure if the ring is still in one piece. The chunk was nowhere to be
> >found, but evidently it was too big to fit between the piston and the
> >non-recessed part of the head that overlaps the piston. There was a perfect
> >pattern of this overlap pummeled into the top of the piston. This explains
> >the terrible racket that occurred on a couple occasions that I attributed to
> >a sticking valve. (I'm a rank novice gearhead.) Fortunately there seems to be
> >very little damage to the cylinder wall, just a few faint scratches. Here's
> >the question: Can I change the piston by dropping the pan without removing
> >the engine from the car? The engine was overhauled a few thousand miles ago
> >(just before a long period of storage) and from what I can see the other
> >three pistons and cylinders are in good shape. Do pistons have to be changed
> >in sets? They seem to be sold in sets. How can I tell if the connecting rod
> >bearings are ok? I would normally leave this type of job to my mechanic, but
> >I don't have access to a truck and trailer. Thanks in advance.
> >
> >Bob Donahue (Still stuck in the '50s)
> >EMAIL - BOBMGT@AOL.COM
> >52 MGTD - under DIY restoration NEMGTR #11470
> >71 MGB - AMGBA #96-12029, NAMGBR #7-3336
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