Listers,
I'm preparting to refurbish the front and rear suspensions on my '48 MG
TC, and would appreciate comments on my thoughts and tentative plans.
I have two N.O.S. front springs (still in MG factory wrappers) and front
spring pins, and a complete set of factory rubber shackle bushings, and a
pair of N.O.S. Silentbloc bushings for the rear springs. My Bishop steering
box has been completely rebuilt with a new worm & peg, bearings, and rebushed
sector shaft, Tompkins kit. It is in fine functioning order.
Here are my thoughts/plans, and questions:
1) I plan to pack all the springs with high-tech. grease, and enclose them in
"Weffco" spring gaiters. Is this worth the effort & expense?
2) Would it be practical/beneficial to fit bronze bushings to the front eyes
of the front springs instead of having the spring eye ride directly on the
pin?
3) How about replacing all rubber spring shackle bushings with "Silentbloc"
units, similar to those used at the front end of the rear springs? (Seems to
me that this (along with #2, above) would give much more precise and
stable location to the springs and axles, with attendant improvement in
tracking and steering.) Alternatively, would the polyurethane bushings
now avaliable be as good, or better?
4) Should I retain, or remove the castor-reducing shims between the front
springs and front axle? (My TC currently has them installed.)
5) I'm currently still using the original rear springs, after about 150,000
miles. Should I replace them, have them re-arched, or just continue to
use them?
***end of questions***
Finally, a couple of tips:
Years and years ago, I lost all my brake fluid, and foot brakes, when a
pebble worked its way between the bottom of the master cylinder reservoir and
its "stone-shield", causing a leak. After soldering the leak, I cemented a
rubber pad to the bottom of the reservoir, and another pad to the inner side
of the stone shield itself, to prevent a recurrence of the problem. At the
same time, I modified the mounting hole of the shield, making it into a
U-shaped notch instead of a hole. This makes it much easier to remove and
install the master cylinder. (One installs the cyl., leaving the mounting
nut slightly loose, slips the notched shield into position, and then tightens
the mounting nut.)
Regards to all,
Carl Fritz
TC 6756
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