Dick,
Replacment of the bushings on the pedals and the pedal shaft is not one
of the more fun things that one does to these cars. It's pretty tedious
and frustrating, actually, in my experience.
You need to get as much crud out of the pedal box as possible. You
might even consider putting a hose in there to remove dirt. It's hard to
get the wrenches on, you can't see what you are doing, and any grit just
makes it more difficult.
Essentially, what you are doing is to slide the pedal shaft (#6) out
sideways through the hole in the chassis. You need to remove the circlip
(#7), then remove the clinch bolts in the pedals. The shaft is notched to
receive the bolts, so they must come out first The pedals more or less
stay in place as you push the shaft out the side.
Replacement of the pedal bushings is easy. You might check the shaft
bushings for wear before you try to replace. Mine were OK, but since I
had the new bushings I went to replace them anyway. That was a bad move.
The outboard bushing is not perpindicular to the chassis--it's
perpendicular to the centerline of the car, so it's not easy to press it
in place. You can pull it in with a rig of different sizes of bolts,
washer and sockets. But, if these pedal bushings are in good shape, just
leave them alone.
Notes in pencil that I left in my WS manual--not that I ever intend to
do this again with the body on the chassis---1) #24 lever is not
symmetrical. The thinner side goes toward the engine. 2) the "bent" end
of the lower clutch rod (equiv to #10 cable) goes---I didn't write it
down, but it only fits right one way so write it down when you get to
this point. 3) Key in the clutch pedal most come out before #6 rod can
be slid through the brake pedal and out the side.
While you're at this, you might replace the worn clevis pins in the
linkage and fill & drill the holes to get them round. If the pivot on
the sump is worn, you can use the spare that's on the other side of the
engine. Sump must come off, though, as it is retained by a nut inside the
sump.
The rubber bellows from a MC plus the plastic top from a 35mm film
container, mounted on the clutch rods help to keep some of the dirt out
of the pedal box, making this repair operation somewhat farther into the
future than it would otherwise be.
Allow a full day for this seemingly simple job.
Bob
On Sat, 22 May 1999 08:49:11 -0400 Dick Dell <rddell@mindspring.com>
writes:
>Hello all,
>
>Thanks to all who responded to my question on rethreading the bolt
>holes on
>my TF sump. I'm doing that today. Now I have another question.
>
>I started out to replace my old master cylinder and I keep finding
>more
>things I need to fix. The pedal box was filled with years of grease
>and
>dirt packed solid and now that I'm cleaning everything out I would
>like to
>fix the loose brake and clutch pedals. There is a lot of lateral
>movement
>due to wear.
>
>How are the pedals removed and how do you fix this problem? I seem to
>remember many years ago there was an article in The Sacred Octagon
>about
>this but I have not been able to find my old issues.
>
>While on the subject, is there a T-series technical page on the web?
>
>Dick Dell
>Raleigh NC
>
>
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