Shim spacers sounds like the right way to go, thanks for the idea. After alot
of measuring, fitting on, taking off, etc. I realized that the sides of the
brake shoes are rubbing on the brake drum Front wall. Its like the brake
shoes are too wide. But I measured the shoes to the old ones, and they are
the same thickness. Unfortunately I can't compare the new drums to the old
drums....I changed from steel wheel to wire wheel.
After all this, I noticed that the new drum had a ridge in the casting that
sticks up 1/16" to high. The ridge is from when they turned the drums and
stopped after going into the drum so far. It looks like either the drum isn't
cut deep enough, or just as you had said, a shim between the spacer and the
outer bearing would work perfect.
Thanks for the idea, gave me ideas fpr several areas to check. Never ran into
such a thing, the rear drums worked perfect, not a single problem. The only
thing I can think of is that maybe when I painted all the parts before mating
them up. Kinda makes me wonder if that thickness of the painted surfaces
between the stub axle assembly and the brake drum plate really makes a
difference. The original had no paint between the stub and plate. It was all
painted after assembly. A shim the thickness of the paint inside the hub
between the bearings would push the hub out just enough to clear the drums.
The only other recourse that I can think of was a suggestion from the Brake
shop here in town. They suggested that I give them my shoes and let mill off
1/32" off the side of the shoes. That would make the sides of the shoes clear
the drum.
If given the choice of shiming the bearings versus millling the shoes a
1/32"....anyone think that the millling idea is bad?
Thanks Bob Johnson
Freehold, NJ
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