I agree with Jarl on the bypass question, its better to have the original
thermostat which blocks off the bypass when open.
However, in the interests of economy, I have installed many modern 160
degree thermostats into the top of the original housing as described, ie
knock out the old guts and install a new thermostst above the bypass. I
drill two 3/16" holes in the new thermostat flap to ensure some water
circulation during warm-up. The number and size of these holes no doubt
will cause further debate, but at least you get the idea. Then install a
solid gasket or piece of sheet metal across the bypass opening and screw
the elbow back on. Now we have a stock appearance and blocked off the
bypass entirely and all water is forced through the radiator.
Bob Grunau
----------
> From: ROBERT G. HOWARD <mgbob@juno.com>
> To: deboer@pacbell.net
> Cc: mgbob@juno.com; mgs@autox.team.net; mg-t@autox.team.net
> Subject: Re: More TD help
> Date: August 26, 1998 07:29
>
> Maybe so, maybe not. I don't know. Dave Raymond has worked on a few
> thousand more TDs than I have ever seen, and it was he who wrote the
> information that the editor of TSO saw fit to publish. Perhaps a call to
> Dave at Abington Classics/USA, 12 Old Redding Rd, W. Redding, CT 06896,
> phone 203-438-6865 would resolve the ambiguity.
> Bob
>
>
>
> On Tue, 25 Aug 1998 19:07:17 -0700 Jarl&CaroldeBoer <deboer@pacbell.net>
> writes:
> >Ah but Bob, WE HAVE A PROBLEM!!!!!
> >
> >The original TC/TD thermostat had an outer sleeve that also moved to
> >block the bypass hose when the thermostat valve opened. The bypass
> >hose
> >is that smaller diameter hose that runs down at an angle to the steel
> >3
> >way connector for the lower hoses. The bypass' function was for the
> >water flow when the system was cool to be directed to the thermostat
> >bellows (and not through the radiator) to help the thermostat to open
> >as
> >early as possible when things warmed up.
> >
> >With the suggested modification, you lose the blocking function and
> >you
> >have a constant opening (of about .75 square inches) allowing water to
> >bypass the radiator AT ALL TIMES. Not a good thing, sort of like
> >having
> >a pencil sized connection between your veins and arteries just
> >downstream of your heart - your legs wouldn't like the circulation
> >problems a bit! You're saving some money at the risk of overheating,
> >and
> >if you block the bypass, your "new" thermostat will be sloooow to
> >open.
> >Better to do it right the first time! Jarl de Boer
> >~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~
> >ROBERT G. HOWARD wrote:
> >>
> >> Hi Pat,
> >> Moss may be giving him the correct info. The TD setup is unusual.
> >> Dave Raymond, NEMGTR #96, wrote this, which was printed in the
> >April,
> >> 1990 issue of TSO:
> >> "Most TCs and TDs are running around with the original thermostat,
> >> either because of a lack of knowledge or the almost prohibitive cost
> >of a
> >> new one. One very effective solution to the problem that I have used
> >is
> >> as follows:
> >> "Remove the thermostat housing, using a screwdriver, pry off the
> >valve
> >> that is at the top of the housing, and remove the remains of the old
> >> thermostat. Break out the flat piece of metal with a hole in it hat
> >the
> >> stem of the old thermostat passed through. Clean up any burrs that
> >> remain. Purchase a 160 or a 180 degree thermostat depending on
> >season.
> >> One that I use is for older Fords. The thermostat fits into the top
> >of
> >> the housing perfectly. Drill two 9/64" holes through the edge of the
> >> thermostat and the flange of the housing using two 1/8 x 1/4
> >brass
> >> rivets inserted up from the bottom, back up with punch held in a
> >vise
> >> and peen over the end. Result: a neat installation that can be
> >changed
> >> over to a summer thermostat with very little difficulty, saving some
> >> money and ensuring that with all other factors being equal, you'll
> >have
> >> an abundance of heat. A thermostat, properly working, is a very
> >important
> >> part of the machine-it insures faster warmup and maintains a
> >constant
> >> temperature in the engine.
> >> Dave is a highly-regarded MG MD, and this tip sounds as though
> >it's
> >> just what your friend is looking for.
> >> Bob
> >>
> >> On Tue, 25 Aug 1998 17:28:40 -0700 "ppp:pbailey" <pbailey@qnet.com>
> >> writes:
> >> >Thanks all for the Td info I passed it along to Bob,but now he has
> >> >another problem(Yes.. I'm trying to get him to get a computer!!}It
> >> >seems
> >> >he has no thermostat and he ordered one from Moss but it doesn't
> >fit
> >> >He
> >> >has some kind of housing with a siphon hose on it and Moss is
> >telling
> >> >him he has to buy the whole works for $85.Any help will make him
> >happy
> >> >We don't want him to get disgusted and sell it .
> >> >Pat
> >> >
> >> >
> >
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