I did this a little differently, but the result is the same. First, I
bought 8x1 bolts of appropriate length at the local Pep Boys, making sure
to get high strength (equivalent to Grade 8, but I forget the metric
designation). Supposedly the standard metric threaded bolt will have
slightly different thread sizes, but they work fine.
I then lifted the engine with my hoist to the right level. I bolted the
stand to the engine, only putting weight on the stand and the bolts after
everything was snugged up.
One minor modification I had to make to the engine stand was necessary in
my case. Each mounting hole on the stand was really a tube of about 2"
long. I guess that provides additional clearance to the back of the
engine while on the stand. In my case, it was too annoying to have to
find bolts long enough to go through the tube. So I shortened them up
using a cut-off tool.
As for the springs, the accepted, no-compressor method, is detailed in
Horst Schach's book (and, I think, in the repair manual). It involves
using a floor jack under the spring pan. The jack is raised to compress
the spring against the weight of the car. If the engine is not in the
car and/or the body is not on it, looping a chain around the suspension
and connecting both ends to floor jack is needed.
My own personal method is to take my engine hoist, tie a 3/4" nylon rope
to the pedestal, loop it once around the suspension, and then tie the
other end to the boom. By raising the hoist's boom, the loop contracts
and compresses the spring. This works pretty well with my bare chassis,
but probably won't work on an assembled car with the front fender on. Be
really, really careful using this method, however. Your rope has to be
in excellent condition and you have to use your best Boy Scout knots. I
wouldn't use this method on any car with heavier springs than the TD,
which are pretty wimpy as front springs go. If you end up with a spring
in your forehead, you didn't hear it from me!
David Littlefield
Houston, TX
'62 MGA MkII
'51 MGTD
'88 Jaguar XJ-S
On Mon, 04 May 1998 16:49:54 EDT mgbob@juno.com (ROBERT G. HOWARD)
writes:
>Hi Ron,
> My TD's engine came out a few weeks ago (perhaps you remember my
>call for help finding a crankshaft. I was able to bolt it up to the
>US style engine stand, though I was also worried about the ability of
>the bolts to take the load. More accurately, I was worried about
>breaking the flywheel housing part of the block casting, so I bolted
>it up gently, one turn at a time, until all the four bolts were
>equally snug, then lifted the assembly and poked the shaft of the
>holder into the stand. Horst Schach's (sp) book has a photo of a
>complete engine on the stand, so I guess it's OK.
> The sides of that bracket should be perpindicular to the ground. A
>couple of years ago, a tech article in TSO attributed the owner's
>rough clutch engagement to the engine moving around because his
>bracket was flared out.
> I don't know how you would do the suspension with spring
>compressors, though I have read that owners have done it. My
>suggestion would be to use sandbags to weight the chassis down, making
>up for most of the weight of the engine.
>Bob
>
>On Mon, 04 May 1998 13:05:01 -0500 Ronald Olds <tr6@pipeline.com>
>writes:
>>
>>Well I finally removed the engine and transmission from the frame and
>
>>have
>>come up with some more questions that I'm sure someone can help me
>out
>>with.
>>
>>1. Has anyone mounted a TD engine to one of those US style engine
>>stands
>>where the engine is bolted to the stand using the transmission
>>mounting
>>bolts holes? These bolts look a little small to support the weight
>of
>>the
>>engine. I would appreciate anyone's advise who has actually done this
>
>>or
>>has any other methods to recommend.
>>
>>2. I believe my support bracket for the rear rubber mounts (under the
>>transmission) is damaged. The front and back sides (towards the front
>
>>and
>>rear of the car) of mine look to be bent out. Can anyone tell me if
>>these
>>sides are supposed to be straight?
>>
>>3. I am now ready to remove the front suspension and would like some
>>advise
>>on the proper procedure. I don't see any way to use a spring
>>compressor to
>>compress the coil spring before removing the assembly from the
>frame.
>>
>>Thanks for any help.
>>
>>Ron Olds
>>
>>
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