Hi Dan,
If you can move the wheel hub in and out with the stub axle nut tight you
have wear on the outer bearing race or hub bore. Or both. I like to use
tapered roller bearings. This allows me to Loctite the outer races in the
hubs so they can't move. Then adjust the bearing spacer length with 20 mm
bore shims till the hub just spins freely with no movement after the stub
axle nut is tight. Stub axle nut should be torqued to 75 ft-lbs. Now the
inner races are held tightly in place by the stub axle nut. Bit of a pain
shimming the spacer, but once done, it will last 100,000 miles!
If you just shorten the bearing spacer with original ball bearings you might
FEEL the assembly is OK. However the outer bearing race may still be loose
on the diameter and allow some wheel movement on the bearings.
And whatever you do, PLEASE use a bearing spacer and tighten the stub axle
nut to 75 ft-lbs. The assembly now has a larger effective diameter and this
results in a stronger stub axle assembly in bending.
Bob Grunau
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-mg-mmm@Autox.Team.Net [mailto:owner-mg-mmm@Autox.Team.Net]On
Behalf Of Daniel Shockey
Sent: Sunday, June 22, 2008 10:42 PM
To: MMM List
Subject: PA Front Wheel Bearing Adjustment
Hello, Compatriots,
Both my front hubs were loose on their bearings (could move them in and
out).
One side just needed tightening of the axle nut. It turns freely without
noticeable sideways movement. Tightening the other nut will not rid me of
the
free play. There are no shims in the spacer assembly and all the pieces seem
to be there.
Do I need to take some material off the between-bearings spacer? Should I
shim
the outer race of the (outer) bearing? Am I missing something in this? I
wonder if my bearing race has worn into the hub.
Thanks very much for all your help.
Dan Shockey
Wyoming, Illinois, USA
PA2108
Working to make the NAMMMR gathering July 10-13!
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